Shi Shi Beach

September 3 / 5, 2016

Back in June my granddaughter, 'Cupcake', asked to go backpacking with me. During every visit I would hear "Nana, I want to hike with you." She's six, so I knew my summer schedule would be too difficult for her. Keeping her request in mind, Evie and I worked together to plan a fun, interesting and easy overnight trip for Labor Day weekend, then cleared it with my daughter. Evie's husband, Kevin, even joined us. Much to everyone's excitement, after weeks of planning, the weekend finally arrived and we set off for our three day adventure.

A drier portion of the trail
to Shi Shi Beach

After a long drive, a 'forever' drive if you're six, we arrived at the trailhead with all the required permits in hand. Cupcake donned her pack like a pro and set off down the trail, trekking poles in hand. The trail began in a second growth forest of cedars located on the Makah reservation. It was interesting to see where patches of bark had been cultivated for use in making traditional headwear. When you hike with a youngster, your eyes are opened to amazing discoveries that, as adults, we miss; every twisted tree trunk, mushroom, and beetle was enthusiastically pointed out. Salmonberries and young alder 'reached out' to high-five us. A branch touched her head to feel her pretty hair because, you know, trees have leaves not hair.


The trail to Shi Shi Beach is heavily travelled, hosting as many as 300 people a day during the summer. It is well-known for its muddy patches that never really dry up, due to the close proximity to the cool, wet coastal air. We strode through and around these patches without incident until we reached the muckiest one, at which point Evie started laughing. The mud had pulled her shoe partially off, so she could now say she'd had her 'sole sucked' at Shi Shi!

Just as Cupcake was beginning to tire under the weight of her pack, we arrived at the toughest part of the trail - a 160-foot cliff face. Just beyond the trees you can see the ocean and hear its waves crashing ashore. The trail here is very steep, occasionally muddy, and riddled with large rocks and exposed roots. Fortunately there are a series of ropes affixed to trees to aid hikers in their climb to/from the beach. We were prepared to help Cupcake down this section of trail, but she took a deep breath, squared her shoulders and bravely started her climb down. The girl is a hiking machine! I was so proud of her. 

"Stinky, stinky, stinky!"

At the bottom of the trail was a nice campsite, tucked up against the cliff wall in the trees. We opted to setup our camp here rather than on the beach as originally planned. We greeted the beach with a quick "Hello" then busied ourselves with setting up camp while Cupcake explored a little. We located the backcountry toilet, which was just a few minutes down the trail through the trees. Kevin and Cupcake gathered some firewood which, unfortunately, was too damp from the recent rains to give us an effective fire. Kevin gave it his best effort and built us enough of a fire to warm our hotdogs for dinner. After eating, we hit the beach to explore.

I love the ocean at low tide, when it gifts us with tide pools. They are amazing little ecosystems that give us a glimpse into life at the bottom of the ocean. Everyone had fun tickling sea anemones to make them curl up within themselves, watching hermit crabs lumber around in their mobile homes, spying bullheads hiding beneath the kelp, and searching for other sea life. We saw only a few starfish, but those we saw were healthy specimens, which made me happy. The past few years have seen our local starfish suffering from a disease that is 'melting' them. Seals rested on a distant rock, waiting for the incoming tide. A squeal of delight would erupt every time Cupcake discovered something new, much of which adults 'miss' or take for granted. There is nothing like seeing the world through a child's eye to make us young again. She learned to watch where she put her feet (not easy for a young child) so not to harm any exposed anemones, barnacles or mussels. I, of course, took advantage of this time to teach her some early eco-responsibility and naturalist lessons ... which she absorbed like a sponge. 

 

 


As the light began to fade, we sat on the driftwood near our camp and watched an amazing sunset. It had been a long day, so we all turned into bed, snuggling into our cozy sleeping bags for a good night's sleep. Our first night was a bit rough, but one that cemented my relationship with my granddaughter as one of love and trust. I will forever remember the waves of Shi Shi as the binds that will forever tie us together.  

 

Two days later, after an amazing weekend of fun, learning and exploration, we headed back up the cliff wall and down the trail towards home. Kevin, Evie and I watched Cupcake transform and grow up a little this trip. As we found peace and relaxation, she found confidence, fun, and ... well, I think we can sum her weekend up with this quote ... "Nana, I even have sand in my butt-crack."

Cupcake at Shi Shi Beach

Hike 44 of 52
Distance: 4 miles
Elevation gain: 200'
Max Elevation achieved: 200'