Lower Lena Lake

March 26, 2016

Sometimes it's nice to re-hike a trail that has given you trouble in the past to check your current level of conditioning. This was one of those instances. I have hiked to Lower Lena Lake a handful of times, and each time I have huffed & puffed my way up, having to pause to catch my breath along the way. The trip down has vexed my knees, hips and quads. It's not a difficult trail - in fact, it's rated as appropriate for kids - but it has a steady and continuous elevation gain of 1300 feet in 3.6 miles. It's just one that has given me trouble.

photo by Holly Scheyer

This week's trip up to Lena Lake was under partly sunny skies. The trail is becoming very popular, thus is seeing heavier foot traffic, but it is well maintained and still in fairly good condition. It "meanders" (a polite term for switchback after switchback) up through a beautiful old growth forest. The trees here are easily 100 feet tall, rising impressively above the forest floor, as if reaching towards the heavens. Even with all this beauty surrounding us, there was also evidence of our recent wind storms. Trees were down across the trail; one stately giant snapped off and, as it fell, uprooted two other large trees, who then broke off another tree further down the hill. Like dominoes they took each other out, leaving splintered stumps, unearthed roots and debris behind. It was dramatically awe inspiring to be witness to the forces that had been at work here.

This trail continued upward as well, pushing not toward heaven, but to our destination - Lena Lake. It led us past one of the largest boulders I've ever seen, left behind by the glaciers that once covered this area. It took us over a dry gulch where a stream once bounced over boulders - this creekbed hasn't seen water during my lifetime, but indications of the water that once flowed can be seen. It also carried us over an active stream, and alongside a small waterfall where it cascades down the mountainside.

After executing 15 switchbacks and a couple doglegs, we finally arrived at the upper viewpoint of the lake. Lena Lake sits in bowl created by three surrounding mountains of the Brothers Wilderness. Her banks are steep, mirroring the terrain of the mountains that encircle her, making her much deeper than she appears from the surface. We sat there at the overview, soaking in the surrounding beauty and enjoying lunch. After lunch we took a side trail down to the lakeshore where we wondered at the steep banks, laughed and played on the massive tree roots and logs, and cast off any remaining stresses from our daily lives. Eventually it was time to head home, so back to the main trail we went, then on down to the trailhead.

I was pleased that I experienced none of the difficulties of past trips. I didn't have to stop for breath, nor to give my legs a break - signs that I am becoming stronger. I can see growth not only in myself, but in my hiking partners. They continue to improve in condition as well. Zillah accompanied us and continues to develop into an awesome trail dog. All in all this was a great day.

Zillah, Me, Myke, Dan, Andrea, Shelby, Evie & Bill (Holly behind lens)

Hike #11 of 52.
Distance: 7.2 miles

Elevation gain: 1,300 feet / Max elevation achieved; 2,000 ft.

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North Fork Quinault

March 19, 2016

Last weekend the PNW was hit by extremely high winds. The coastal areas were hit the hardest. Our group decided to play it safe and cancelled our planned hike. We stayed indoors, hunkered down and waited out the storm. As we listened to news reports in the days following the storm, we were glad we did. Heading out on this week's hike, I wasn't sure what we'd find on the trail, but knew our group could tackle most any obstacle that may lay ahead.

Our plan was to hike the Graves Creek trail; a pretty seven mile trek through the Quinault rain forest with about 1200 feet of elevation gain. However, the road was closed about six miles from the trailhead due to a major washout. We hauled out our trusty guidebook and located another trail just a few miles up the other side of the river - the North Fork Quinault trail. The trail distance was comparable, with a bit less elevation.

Evie on the North Fork Quinault trail

The portion of the trail that we travelled was once part of the Press Expedition's 1889 route across the Olympics, and followed an old roadbed that had long ago been abandoned due to the cost to constantly maintain and rebuild it. The Quinault River rages high during the winter and with spring runoffs and frequently jumps its banks, continually changing its course. About 5 miles up the trail is the site of a former lodge, however we weren't headed that far this trip.

A short way up the trail we encountered the first evidence of how strong the windstorm that hit the coast truly was. A beautiful cedar, who's trunk was over 4 feet in diameter, lay across the trail, uprooted by the gales. We are accustomed to encountering smaller trees across the trail from time to time, but seeing one this size was humbling. We climbed up and over it, and continued up the trail to the next downed tree, and the next. There were a few small creeks to cross, a marshy area, and a large rocky wash, none of which caused us much difficulty.

Before we knew it we had arrived at Wolf Bar Camp - our lunch destination and turnaround point. It was peacefully quiet there among the trees on the riverbank - the only sound that of the river and a lone songbird serenading from its perch above us. We weren't the only ones there for lunch - a few early season mosquitos pulled in and started dining on Evie, so after watching her aerobic bug-swatting workout, we packed up for the return trip.

Evie making her way across a stream and under a downed tree

Storm damage - Snapped Hemlock (3' dia trunk)

 

This really was a nice trail, easy up to the camp (400 ft gain). Any readers wanting to hike this trail should be prepared for the downed trees and marshy area - and bring bug spray.  The highlight of this hike, I think, was the three herds of elk we encountered near the trailhead. They were majestically beautiful. I fully intend to do this one again next year with my grandkids. By then the trees should be cleared.



Maddy, Me, Evie, Andrea & Bill in front of the ranger station

Hike #10 of 52.
Distance: 5.2 miles
400' elevation gain



Lower Gray Wolf River

March 5, 2016

Last week we hiked along the Dungeness River. This past weekend we hiked the lower section of the Gray Wolf River, which feeds into the Dungeness. Together they flow through the Buckhorn Wilderness area of the Olympic Range, into Dungeness Bay and on out into the Straight of Juan de Fuca. I hiked this trail last year - in fact, it was on this trail that the decision to return to Mount St Helens was made. I have looked forward to re-hiking this trail, partly because of the beauty of the river, and partly to give my current level of conditioning a check.

This isn't a difficult trail, although it is far more than an easy stroll through the forest. It starts out with an 800' descent to the riverbank, followed by an 800' climb up and over a beautifully forested ridge, and back down to the river. The up and over is accomplished in one mile, so is a definite work-out. The reward awaiting you on the other side is some of the prettiest riverside trail you're likely to hike. There is an established campsite that invites you to sit, linger, and enjoy the sound of the river as it sings its soothing lullaby. And sit we did. We each found ourselves a section of log and pulled out our lunches. After eating we explored the river's edge, took some photos and, in my case, fell in. Even now I can envision the expression on my father's face as he would have shook his head in wonderment at what a lack of grace his petite little girl possessed. It was a good opportunity to check the water resistance of my boots and effectiveness of my gaiters. I'm happy to announce that my feet stayed dry ... and that I do not walk on water.

We hit the trail again after our lunch break. Just up the trail a bit the water takes on the most beautiful color of light blue-green. The sun had finally broken through the clouds and bathed the forest in a shower of color - the greens and yellows of a dormant forest against the blue-green of the river was stunning. I really must return to hike this trail during the summer some time, as I can only begin to imagine how beautiful it must be.

The trail steeply climbs again for a short distance. At one time it took you to a high footbridge that crossed the river, but it was destroyed in a flood back in 1990, so the trail ends here. It's amazing to stand there, looking down at the river as it rushes through the narrow channel, and not be able to see any evidence where the bridge once stood, as nature has fully taken over. Holly and I made the trek up to that site, then turned around and joined back up with the rest of our group who chose not to make the additional climb.


Our return trip seemed to take forever, because this trail has the distinction of being uphill both ways. If our legs muscles weren't tired before, they were now. Everyone did great, even the member of our group who was experiencing some significant knee trouble. Once back at the trailhead, we shot our group photo, loaded into our vehicles and headed home, calling it a day.


I didn't use my trekking poles on this trail because I really wanted to see the difference in my performance over last year's hike. Looking back, my knees and quads faired better, but I am still having trouble with my hip flexors. A trip to the massage therapist is on my list.

Hike #9 of 52.

Distance hiked: 8.6 miles

Elevation Gain: 800'

Max Elevation achieved: 1500'

 

Upper Dungeness River Trail

February 27, 2016

In the Buckhorn Wilderness area of the Olympics, near Sequim, there lies a trail that I have been wanting to hike for a couple of years. It's trailhead is another of those I often pass on my way to other trails. During the summer the parking lot is usually very full, indicating a large number of people out on the trail, enjoying nature. This isn't the case in February, however, when the temperatures are a bit colder (okay, much colder) and the weather unpredictable. Admittedly, the forecast for the weekend wasn't glorious, but my hiking pals and I packed raingear and gaitors and hit the trail anyhow. And, boy, are we glad we did! The weather cooperated and gave us a partly sunny day.

There is minimal elevation gain on the Upper Dungeness trail, but it comes all at once at the beginning of the trail ...then again a few more times along the trail as we gave some back, then re-claimed as we climbed the next hill. The trail is, for the most part, in good repair and follows the river almost the entire way. There was a landslide area that we had to navigate, otherwise only minimal obstacles. The river was beautiful, as was the forest it dissects. We crossed it twice on two log footbridges, taking pause to appreciate the river rushing beneath us. The old growth forest surrounded us and cushioned our steps, muffling the sounds of our boots on the trail; the silence only occasionally broken by our conversations and the sounds of the river, which was ever present.

 

Heidi & Zillah enjoy a stroll through the forest

Holly makes her way across the slide area

Our destination was Camp Handy, a back-country shelter that was originally built sometime in the early 1900's. At one time, there were 193 of these shelters - only 32 still survive. It was here we removed our packs and ate lunch. The clouds broke and allowed enough sunlight through to warm our bodies as we sat on a log eating. Rihanna sang, "Turn your face towards the sun; Let the shadows fall behind you; Don't look back, just carry on; And the shadows will never find you." So too did we turn our faces towards the sun, allowing the rays to wash over us. The moment passed quickly and with the clouds came also the return of the cold. Time to pack up and get back on the trail.

The return trip went quickly, with only minimal stops to take additional photos. The distance of this hike wasn't much, but was more than I've done so far this year. I was disappointed to find the now all too familiar issues of knee & hip weakness/pain have returned. Fortunately I know how to deal with those issues. Otherwise, it was a perfect day. I got to spend quality time with friends, my sister and our dog Zillah. Everyone had a good time and we all continue to improve in conditioning and skill. I will definitely return to hike this trail again.

Hike #8 of 52

Distance: 6.8 miles
Elevation gain: 600 ft

Murhut Falls

February 20, 2016

Can I just say, the Olympic Peninsula is an amazing place? No matter which area you are travelling, you are going to be treated with eye-candy. If the weather is clear, as it was this day, you're going to go into visual diabetic coma from the uber-sweet eye candy. In my opinion, some of the best diabetic-inducing eye candy can be found at Lake Crescent, especially if you're there on a clear day when the waters are calm.

 

 



Perfection.


After an enriching hike to Sol Duc Falls and soul quenching drive around Lake Crescent, I found myself southbound on Hwy 101, following Hood Canal home. The problem was, I wasn't quite ready to go home yet. There are a couple of waterfalls on the Hood Canal side of the Olympics that can be reached via short trails I am aware of. One of them, Murhut Falls, I had not yet visited. I glanced at the clock, did some quick mental calculation as to how much daylight I had left, and turned on the road to the Duckabush Recreation Area. A short while later, after testing the durability of the stock struts on a Ford Mustang, I arrived at the trailhead.

This is a short trail with just enough elevation gain thrown in to make it interesting. It wasn't but a matter of 15 minutes or so before I reached the falls. The winter sunlight was beginning to fade, but even so, it was a sight to behold as the water plunges 130 feet. It's tall enough that, from the vantage point of the trail (where there is a nice bench - never met one I didn't like) capturing it in one photo frame is difficult without a wide angle lens. My iPhone isn't equipped with wide angle anything, so I canted it at an angle and captured about 3/4 of the waterfall.

After spending enough time there to admire the beauty of the falls, I high-tailed it back to my car. Although equipped with a flashlight, I wasn't looking forward to hiking down the trail in the dark. Nor was I looking forward to navigating the mine-field of potholes with my mud covered headlights.

It was thus I wrapped up a perfect day. I arrived home to the joyous relief of the dogs, who welcomed me with wagging tails and inquisitive noses. Where had I been? What had I done? Why did was there the lingering smell of a strange dog on my clothes?

Yep. Perfection.

52 Hike Challenge: Hike #7

Distance hiked: 1.6 miles
Elevation gained: 250 ft. 

Sol Duc Falls

February 20, 2016


On the coastal side of the Olympics, about an hour outside of Port Angeles, one can find the Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort. I usually avoid the area like the plague because, to me, the word 'resort' is synonymous with 'crowd'. During the summer months when the resort is open, this may very well be the case (but it's not likely I'll be headed there to check my theory). During the winter and early-springtime, however, you are far less likely to encounter large numbers of people on the trail. Thus it was that a bright, sunny Saturday in February found me on a solo hike up to the falls.


There are two trails to access the falls: the first being a loop from the resort, and a second, shorter and easier route accessed from a parking area. I chose the route from the resort.

There was a light coating of fresh snow on the ground. The sun shone through the upper canopy of the trees, filtered by a fine mist. Paired with the snow on the trail and the mossy green of the forest floor, it was beautiful beyond words. I had to occasionally stop to allow my soul to soak it all in. With each cleansing breath I could feel the stresses of my daily life wash away. I was slowly being enveloped by the peaceful serenity that I only find in the forest. With the sun's rays sparkling off the mist, I half expected to see fairies dancing about but, alas, it was just me and the trees. I could have lingered there forever, however I needed to get moving if I was ever to reach the falls, so onward I ventured.

Not too far up the trail I came to the first of what would become several ... um ... obstacles. I came to a stream. There was a puncheon (footbridge) for me to cross the stream. No problem. Except that it didn't actually cross the stream. This could definitely pose a problem. I stood there for a moment thinking to myself, "Huh. Interesting..." I pondered the situation for a bit, surveyed the surrounding area, and found a place upstream a bit where I could hop across on rocks, logs and lumps of grass/moss (which, I'd like to point out, are never as supportive as they seem). Proud of my problem-solving, I merrily proceeded on my way.  

Another 1,000 feet or so up the trail I encountered the next hindrance to my progress. It seems a "water feature" had appeared in a low-point of the trail; one that was over 10 feet across and roughly 8" at it's deepest spot. For reference, the snowy patch in my photo is where the trail resumes. Fun, right? Again employing my troubleshooting skills, I found a log that I could reach via rocks and whatnot, using the surrounding small brush for balance. Of course, the log was decaying and covered in wet snow which made for an interesting crossing, but cross I did ... and with dry feet, I'd like to add. Once on the other side I raised my arms in a small triumphant gesture. "YES! Rocked that one!"


Feeling pretty darned good about my solo venture thus far, I carefully picked my way across the snow field and along the slushy trail that lay before me. I rounded the next corner and ran smack dab into two downed trees. My jaw dropped, incredulous, as I uttered "Are you kidding me??" I won't include the picture because you wouldn't believe it either. Sigh. Oh well, every hiking enthusiast knows that there are occasionally going to be trails like this. I pushed my way through the jumble of branches and roots and continued on my way. I met up with the trail from the parking lot after about 2-1/2 miles. From here I was roughly half a mile from the lower falls. There was no snow or slush on this portion of the trail, just a little mud here and there - apparently the fairies I was looking for down below had been busy clearing this upper trail. How nice of them.

I came to the lower portion of Sol Duc Falls first and was immediately glad I didn't turn around back at the downed trees. It was beautiful. The forest canopy is healthy in this area, so everything was cast in diffused lighting that seemed to enhance the colors. I sat here for a few minutes, listening to the rushing water crash and tumble it's way downhill. There was the occasional chirp of a bird as it flitted about above me. As much as I would have stayed longer, I knew another set of falls awaited me so I again returned from my daydreams of another world and continued on my way up the trail.

The main attraction of this trail is the upper section of Sol Duc Falls. They are probably one of the most photographed waterfalls in the Olympic National Park. They never receive direct light and, at the right time of day, you can capture the rays of the sun filtering through the trees over the falls, creating rainbows in the mist. I, however, am not a photographer, so any photo I share with you just won't do the scene justice. Here, the Sol Duc River splits and crashes 50 feet down into a narrow chasm. The roar of the water fills the air, as does the misty spray. There is a bench at the top where you can sit to soak it all in ... literally and figuratively.

I stayed here a short while as well, enjoying the solitude and weighing my options for my return trip. It was then that I met the nicest couple - Chris & Yvonne Herr, proprietors of the Ambiance Bed and Breakfast in Sequim. They graciously agreed to give me a ride down the road to my car, which saved me from re-tracing my steps down the trail, or the boredom of hoofing it down the road on foot. Should you be interested in a quiet weekend away, please check them out at http://ambiancebnbwa.com/. I love this genuine, friendly and open couple (and their Great Pyreneese, Stella) and can see us becoming friends down the road.

"...and the Forests will Echo with Laughter..."



This was a great adventure. I don't often hike solo, but was happy to do so on this trail. I tackled the obstacles that presented themselves with optimism, confidence and enthusiasm. The elevation gain on this trail was negligible, therefore I was able to push my pace a bit faster. Although I enjoy hiking at a slower pace, I am often left behind by my faster hiking friends who don't want to wait for me. It felt good to push myself a little. I couldn't have asked for nicer weather or a prettier trail.

52 Hike Challenge; Hike #6

Distance Hiked: 3.2 miles
Elevation Gained: 400ft

 

June Lake

February 13, 2016


I love winter. I don't particularly care for being cold all the time, but that's what fleece is for. The gray skies don't typically bother me and any opportunity to get out and play in the snow makes even the grayest day better. I look forward to my snowshoe adventures for precisely that reason - the chance to get out and play in the snow. Quite often there are snow angels and snowball fights involved. There is almost always laughter and you can count on memories being made. Although still an enjoyable opportunity to get out in the woods, snowshoeing in the rain just doesn't pack as much fun into the day. 


I have been looking forward to a return snowshoe trip to June Lake, on the south side of Mount St Helens since my last trip. I had a great time when I was there a few years ago and was excited to be sharing this next trip with my friend Holly, and our engineering intern Aaron; my sister Heidi went both trips and I always enjoy hitting the trail with her. I scheduled the date then watched the weather forecasts and read other hikers' trip reports. They were predicting gray skies with a 70% chance of rain ... following a week of warmer weather. I was hoping that rain would mean snow at the trail. We started getting a bit concerned when we were within a mile or so of the Sno-Park and had only encountered minimal snow. Our luck prevailed, however, and we had roughly 3 feet of the white stuff at the parking lot. Not exactly optimal snow levels, but satisfactory enough. We donned our packs, strapped on our snowshoes and headed out in a light rain. 

The June Lake trail is a nice winter wonderland type trail that meanders through the woods with nominal elevation gain (500 feet in 2 miles). The lake itself sits in the shadow of Mount St Helens which, if you venture another 1/4 mile past the lake on a clear day, you can view. The lake sports the added bonus of a ponytail waterfall that partially freezes in colder weather.

There had been no recent snowfall thus the trail was fairly compacted and easy to follow. The light rain at the trailhead stayed with us and, instead of turning to snow as we climbed, just rained harder ... which served to compact the trail even more. By the time we reached the lake, we were starting to get pretty wet. We each took a few photos, then tucked ourselves in under the protection of the trees to eat lunch. We are such rugged gnarly women! The rain continued to fall, not intending to grant us a reprieve from our drenching at all. Fortunately it wasn't torrential, just steady. From lunch we headed back down the trail to the car, got out of our wet clothes and headed to Starbucks for some warm happiness in a cup.

All in all, this was a good hike, albeit a wet one. I enjoy snowshoeing this trail and would like to return to hike it in the summer some time.


These early season hikes have been planned to get me out and keep my body moving in the hopes that I won't experience all the problems I had with my hips and knees last year. I felt the exertion of this one in my thighs, which was expected. I have been a little surprised by how easily winded I am with such minimal elevation I've been facing, so will need to work on my stamina before facing the tougher trails coming up.


52 Hike Challenge; #5
Miles Hiked: 5
Elevation Gain: 500 feet