Lower Gray Wolf River

March 5, 2016

Last week we hiked along the Dungeness River. This past weekend we hiked the lower section of the Gray Wolf River, which feeds into the Dungeness. Together they flow through the Buckhorn Wilderness area of the Olympic Range, into Dungeness Bay and on out into the Straight of Juan de Fuca. I hiked this trail last year - in fact, it was on this trail that the decision to return to Mount St Helens was made. I have looked forward to re-hiking this trail, partly because of the beauty of the river, and partly to give my current level of conditioning a check.

This isn't a difficult trail, although it is far more than an easy stroll through the forest. It starts out with an 800' descent to the riverbank, followed by an 800' climb up and over a beautifully forested ridge, and back down to the river. The up and over is accomplished in one mile, so is a definite work-out. The reward awaiting you on the other side is some of the prettiest riverside trail you're likely to hike. There is an established campsite that invites you to sit, linger, and enjoy the sound of the river as it sings its soothing lullaby. And sit we did. We each found ourselves a section of log and pulled out our lunches. After eating we explored the river's edge, took some photos and, in my case, fell in. Even now I can envision the expression on my father's face as he would have shook his head in wonderment at what a lack of grace his petite little girl possessed. It was a good opportunity to check the water resistance of my boots and effectiveness of my gaiters. I'm happy to announce that my feet stayed dry ... and that I do not walk on water.

We hit the trail again after our lunch break. Just up the trail a bit the water takes on the most beautiful color of light blue-green. The sun had finally broken through the clouds and bathed the forest in a shower of color - the greens and yellows of a dormant forest against the blue-green of the river was stunning. I really must return to hike this trail during the summer some time, as I can only begin to imagine how beautiful it must be.

The trail steeply climbs again for a short distance. At one time it took you to a high footbridge that crossed the river, but it was destroyed in a flood back in 1990, so the trail ends here. It's amazing to stand there, looking down at the river as it rushes through the narrow channel, and not be able to see any evidence where the bridge once stood, as nature has fully taken over. Holly and I made the trek up to that site, then turned around and joined back up with the rest of our group who chose not to make the additional climb.


Our return trip seemed to take forever, because this trail has the distinction of being uphill both ways. If our legs muscles weren't tired before, they were now. Everyone did great, even the member of our group who was experiencing some significant knee trouble. Once back at the trailhead, we shot our group photo, loaded into our vehicles and headed home, calling it a day.


I didn't use my trekking poles on this trail because I really wanted to see the difference in my performance over last year's hike. Looking back, my knees and quads faired better, but I am still having trouble with my hip flexors. A trip to the massage therapist is on my list.

Hike #9 of 52.

Distance hiked: 8.6 miles

Elevation Gain: 800'

Max Elevation achieved: 1500'

 

Upper Dungeness River Trail

February 27, 2016

In the Buckhorn Wilderness area of the Olympics, near Sequim, there lies a trail that I have been wanting to hike for a couple of years. It's trailhead is another of those I often pass on my way to other trails. During the summer the parking lot is usually very full, indicating a large number of people out on the trail, enjoying nature. This isn't the case in February, however, when the temperatures are a bit colder (okay, much colder) and the weather unpredictable. Admittedly, the forecast for the weekend wasn't glorious, but my hiking pals and I packed raingear and gaitors and hit the trail anyhow. And, boy, are we glad we did! The weather cooperated and gave us a partly sunny day.

There is minimal elevation gain on the Upper Dungeness trail, but it comes all at once at the beginning of the trail ...then again a few more times along the trail as we gave some back, then re-claimed as we climbed the next hill. The trail is, for the most part, in good repair and follows the river almost the entire way. There was a landslide area that we had to navigate, otherwise only minimal obstacles. The river was beautiful, as was the forest it dissects. We crossed it twice on two log footbridges, taking pause to appreciate the river rushing beneath us. The old growth forest surrounded us and cushioned our steps, muffling the sounds of our boots on the trail; the silence only occasionally broken by our conversations and the sounds of the river, which was ever present.

 

Heidi & Zillah enjoy a stroll through the forest

Holly makes her way across the slide area

Our destination was Camp Handy, a back-country shelter that was originally built sometime in the early 1900's. At one time, there were 193 of these shelters - only 32 still survive. It was here we removed our packs and ate lunch. The clouds broke and allowed enough sunlight through to warm our bodies as we sat on a log eating. Rihanna sang, "Turn your face towards the sun; Let the shadows fall behind you; Don't look back, just carry on; And the shadows will never find you." So too did we turn our faces towards the sun, allowing the rays to wash over us. The moment passed quickly and with the clouds came also the return of the cold. Time to pack up and get back on the trail.

The return trip went quickly, with only minimal stops to take additional photos. The distance of this hike wasn't much, but was more than I've done so far this year. I was disappointed to find the now all too familiar issues of knee & hip weakness/pain have returned. Fortunately I know how to deal with those issues. Otherwise, it was a perfect day. I got to spend quality time with friends, my sister and our dog Zillah. Everyone had a good time and we all continue to improve in conditioning and skill. I will definitely return to hike this trail again.

Hike #8 of 52

Distance: 6.8 miles
Elevation gain: 600 ft

Murhut Falls

February 20, 2016

Can I just say, the Olympic Peninsula is an amazing place? No matter which area you are travelling, you are going to be treated with eye-candy. If the weather is clear, as it was this day, you're going to go into visual diabetic coma from the uber-sweet eye candy. In my opinion, some of the best diabetic-inducing eye candy can be found at Lake Crescent, especially if you're there on a clear day when the waters are calm.

 

 



Perfection.


After an enriching hike to Sol Duc Falls and soul quenching drive around Lake Crescent, I found myself southbound on Hwy 101, following Hood Canal home. The problem was, I wasn't quite ready to go home yet. There are a couple of waterfalls on the Hood Canal side of the Olympics that can be reached via short trails I am aware of. One of them, Murhut Falls, I had not yet visited. I glanced at the clock, did some quick mental calculation as to how much daylight I had left, and turned on the road to the Duckabush Recreation Area. A short while later, after testing the durability of the stock struts on a Ford Mustang, I arrived at the trailhead.

This is a short trail with just enough elevation gain thrown in to make it interesting. It wasn't but a matter of 15 minutes or so before I reached the falls. The winter sunlight was beginning to fade, but even so, it was a sight to behold as the water plunges 130 feet. It's tall enough that, from the vantage point of the trail (where there is a nice bench - never met one I didn't like) capturing it in one photo frame is difficult without a wide angle lens. My iPhone isn't equipped with wide angle anything, so I canted it at an angle and captured about 3/4 of the waterfall.

After spending enough time there to admire the beauty of the falls, I high-tailed it back to my car. Although equipped with a flashlight, I wasn't looking forward to hiking down the trail in the dark. Nor was I looking forward to navigating the mine-field of potholes with my mud covered headlights.

It was thus I wrapped up a perfect day. I arrived home to the joyous relief of the dogs, who welcomed me with wagging tails and inquisitive noses. Where had I been? What had I done? Why did was there the lingering smell of a strange dog on my clothes?

Yep. Perfection.

52 Hike Challenge: Hike #7

Distance hiked: 1.6 miles
Elevation gained: 250 ft. 

Sol Duc Falls

February 20, 2016


On the coastal side of the Olympics, about an hour outside of Port Angeles, one can find the Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort. I usually avoid the area like the plague because, to me, the word 'resort' is synonymous with 'crowd'. During the summer months when the resort is open, this may very well be the case (but it's not likely I'll be headed there to check my theory). During the winter and early-springtime, however, you are far less likely to encounter large numbers of people on the trail. Thus it was that a bright, sunny Saturday in February found me on a solo hike up to the falls.


There are two trails to access the falls: the first being a loop from the resort, and a second, shorter and easier route accessed from a parking area. I chose the route from the resort.

There was a light coating of fresh snow on the ground. The sun shone through the upper canopy of the trees, filtered by a fine mist. Paired with the snow on the trail and the mossy green of the forest floor, it was beautiful beyond words. I had to occasionally stop to allow my soul to soak it all in. With each cleansing breath I could feel the stresses of my daily life wash away. I was slowly being enveloped by the peaceful serenity that I only find in the forest. With the sun's rays sparkling off the mist, I half expected to see fairies dancing about but, alas, it was just me and the trees. I could have lingered there forever, however I needed to get moving if I was ever to reach the falls, so onward I ventured.

Not too far up the trail I came to the first of what would become several ... um ... obstacles. I came to a stream. There was a puncheon (footbridge) for me to cross the stream. No problem. Except that it didn't actually cross the stream. This could definitely pose a problem. I stood there for a moment thinking to myself, "Huh. Interesting..." I pondered the situation for a bit, surveyed the surrounding area, and found a place upstream a bit where I could hop across on rocks, logs and lumps of grass/moss (which, I'd like to point out, are never as supportive as they seem). Proud of my problem-solving, I merrily proceeded on my way.  

Another 1,000 feet or so up the trail I encountered the next hindrance to my progress. It seems a "water feature" had appeared in a low-point of the trail; one that was over 10 feet across and roughly 8" at it's deepest spot. For reference, the snowy patch in my photo is where the trail resumes. Fun, right? Again employing my troubleshooting skills, I found a log that I could reach via rocks and whatnot, using the surrounding small brush for balance. Of course, the log was decaying and covered in wet snow which made for an interesting crossing, but cross I did ... and with dry feet, I'd like to add. Once on the other side I raised my arms in a small triumphant gesture. "YES! Rocked that one!"


Feeling pretty darned good about my solo venture thus far, I carefully picked my way across the snow field and along the slushy trail that lay before me. I rounded the next corner and ran smack dab into two downed trees. My jaw dropped, incredulous, as I uttered "Are you kidding me??" I won't include the picture because you wouldn't believe it either. Sigh. Oh well, every hiking enthusiast knows that there are occasionally going to be trails like this. I pushed my way through the jumble of branches and roots and continued on my way. I met up with the trail from the parking lot after about 2-1/2 miles. From here I was roughly half a mile from the lower falls. There was no snow or slush on this portion of the trail, just a little mud here and there - apparently the fairies I was looking for down below had been busy clearing this upper trail. How nice of them.

I came to the lower portion of Sol Duc Falls first and was immediately glad I didn't turn around back at the downed trees. It was beautiful. The forest canopy is healthy in this area, so everything was cast in diffused lighting that seemed to enhance the colors. I sat here for a few minutes, listening to the rushing water crash and tumble it's way downhill. There was the occasional chirp of a bird as it flitted about above me. As much as I would have stayed longer, I knew another set of falls awaited me so I again returned from my daydreams of another world and continued on my way up the trail.

The main attraction of this trail is the upper section of Sol Duc Falls. They are probably one of the most photographed waterfalls in the Olympic National Park. They never receive direct light and, at the right time of day, you can capture the rays of the sun filtering through the trees over the falls, creating rainbows in the mist. I, however, am not a photographer, so any photo I share with you just won't do the scene justice. Here, the Sol Duc River splits and crashes 50 feet down into a narrow chasm. The roar of the water fills the air, as does the misty spray. There is a bench at the top where you can sit to soak it all in ... literally and figuratively.

I stayed here a short while as well, enjoying the solitude and weighing my options for my return trip. It was then that I met the nicest couple - Chris & Yvonne Herr, proprietors of the Ambiance Bed and Breakfast in Sequim. They graciously agreed to give me a ride down the road to my car, which saved me from re-tracing my steps down the trail, or the boredom of hoofing it down the road on foot. Should you be interested in a quiet weekend away, please check them out at http://ambiancebnbwa.com/. I love this genuine, friendly and open couple (and their Great Pyreneese, Stella) and can see us becoming friends down the road.

"...and the Forests will Echo with Laughter..."



This was a great adventure. I don't often hike solo, but was happy to do so on this trail. I tackled the obstacles that presented themselves with optimism, confidence and enthusiasm. The elevation gain on this trail was negligible, therefore I was able to push my pace a bit faster. Although I enjoy hiking at a slower pace, I am often left behind by my faster hiking friends who don't want to wait for me. It felt good to push myself a little. I couldn't have asked for nicer weather or a prettier trail.

52 Hike Challenge; Hike #6

Distance Hiked: 3.2 miles
Elevation Gained: 400ft

 

June Lake

February 13, 2016


I love winter. I don't particularly care for being cold all the time, but that's what fleece is for. The gray skies don't typically bother me and any opportunity to get out and play in the snow makes even the grayest day better. I look forward to my snowshoe adventures for precisely that reason - the chance to get out and play in the snow. Quite often there are snow angels and snowball fights involved. There is almost always laughter and you can count on memories being made. Although still an enjoyable opportunity to get out in the woods, snowshoeing in the rain just doesn't pack as much fun into the day. 


I have been looking forward to a return snowshoe trip to June Lake, on the south side of Mount St Helens since my last trip. I had a great time when I was there a few years ago and was excited to be sharing this next trip with my friend Holly, and our engineering intern Aaron; my sister Heidi went both trips and I always enjoy hitting the trail with her. I scheduled the date then watched the weather forecasts and read other hikers' trip reports. They were predicting gray skies with a 70% chance of rain ... following a week of warmer weather. I was hoping that rain would mean snow at the trail. We started getting a bit concerned when we were within a mile or so of the Sno-Park and had only encountered minimal snow. Our luck prevailed, however, and we had roughly 3 feet of the white stuff at the parking lot. Not exactly optimal snow levels, but satisfactory enough. We donned our packs, strapped on our snowshoes and headed out in a light rain. 

The June Lake trail is a nice winter wonderland type trail that meanders through the woods with nominal elevation gain (500 feet in 2 miles). The lake itself sits in the shadow of Mount St Helens which, if you venture another 1/4 mile past the lake on a clear day, you can view. The lake sports the added bonus of a ponytail waterfall that partially freezes in colder weather.

There had been no recent snowfall thus the trail was fairly compacted and easy to follow. The light rain at the trailhead stayed with us and, instead of turning to snow as we climbed, just rained harder ... which served to compact the trail even more. By the time we reached the lake, we were starting to get pretty wet. We each took a few photos, then tucked ourselves in under the protection of the trees to eat lunch. We are such rugged gnarly women! The rain continued to fall, not intending to grant us a reprieve from our drenching at all. Fortunately it wasn't torrential, just steady. From lunch we headed back down the trail to the car, got out of our wet clothes and headed to Starbucks for some warm happiness in a cup.

All in all, this was a good hike, albeit a wet one. I enjoy snowshoeing this trail and would like to return to hike it in the summer some time.


These early season hikes have been planned to get me out and keep my body moving in the hopes that I won't experience all the problems I had with my hips and knees last year. I felt the exertion of this one in my thighs, which was expected. I have been a little surprised by how easily winded I am with such minimal elevation I've been facing, so will need to work on my stamina before facing the tougher trails coming up.


52 Hike Challenge; #5
Miles Hiked: 5
Elevation Gain: 500 feet

Elk Lakes

February 6, 2016

Elk Lakes trail has two trailheads. Our trip took us up a 'primitive but drivable' road to the less utilized trailhead. I'd like to remind readers that I drive a Mustang ... which made for an 'interesting' drive. My Shiloh performed like the performance vehicle that she is and we arrived with a sigh of relief only a few white knuckles. Once at the trailhead we stretched a bit, donned our packs and hit the trail.

The trail itself is in good condition and not overly difficult or strenuous. Most of the elevation gain came at the beginning of the trail, which helped to get our juices flowing. Our destination was Lower then Upper Elk Lakes. Before long we came to the point where we believe the bridge across Jefferson Creek used to reside. The trail guide, as well as a sign at the trailhead, had advised us that the bridge was out. Both advised exercising caution crossing the creek. We were prepared to cross a creek on stepping stones. We were not, however, prepared for the torrents of water rushing over rapids with nary a stepping stone in sight. I must have a different definition of the term "creek"...

We continued on up the trail in search of a safer crossing point and came to the prettiest little lake. This was either Lower Elk Lake, or a pond created by some downed trees. Either way, it was a gorgeous teal in color and reflected the subdued colors of a dormant forest in hibernation. The trail continued on up the hill and so did we. Just off the trail at one point was an interesting object - someone had decorated an old tank of some sort to resemble a hut/cabin for trolls or hobbits.

Two miles from the trailhead we came out of the woods ... at the other trailhead. It was here we turned around for our return trip. We stopped at a makeshift camp on the shore of the lake for lunch, then back to the cars.

We may not have reached our original destination of Upper Elk Lake, but that didn't stop us from enjoying the day. Although a tad chilly, the previous day's storm had blown over and gifted us with dry weather. Altogether, this was a near perfect day.

Zillah and I on the bank of Jefferson Creek

52 Hike Challenge, #4
Miles Hiked: 4
Elevation Gain: 400 ft

 

 

HAMMA HAMMA RIVER

 

 

 

 

Big Creek Loop Trail

January 30, 2016
Big Creek Loop Trail
#3 of my 52 Hike Challenge

  

The Big Creek Loop Trail is just off the shores of Lake Cushman, a trailhead I have unwittingly passed over a dozen times. At only five miles in length, it would be easy to pass up in search of a longer trail, but with 900' elevation gain, this short trail is a good little workout.

Stillwood Creek

The entire trail is in the shadow of Mount Ellinor, with a side spur to a scenic view of her (I will take that on the next trip). We hiked through old- and second-growth forest and were always within earshot of the creeks. We made multiple creek crossings on bridges that made me think of the Billy Goats Gruff - I half expected a troll to appear and ask "Who is that trip-trap, trip-trapping across my bridge?" There are many well-placed benches along the trail, whether for a much-needed rest, lunch, or simply to reflect and enjoy the peaceful solitude of the forest. Their presence made me think of my mother and my granddaughter, both of whom never met a bench they didn't like.

Our weather for this trip was perfect. January in the PNW is typically cold, wet and grey. After a week of such weather, we were blessed with chilly sunshine - the colder air helped to keep us cool as we climbed the steady grade of the trail. I was joined by my good friend Holly, new hiking buddies Evie and Andrea, my former son-in-law Josh and his new beau, and my ever faithful four-legged hiking companion Zillah. I couldn't have asked for a better day, and this trail will surely be added to my list of all-time favorites. It's close enough to home, and short enough in length, to be hiked mid-week after work, or as a quick escape from housework.


And, of course, since this was on "my side" of the Olympics, I stopped for a scoop of my favorite Lemon-Lavender Ice Cream... All is good in the universe.


Length; 5 miles
Elevation Gain: 900'