Tubal Cain Backpack

July 3-5, 2015

In an effort to get out away from all the insanity that surrounds Fourth of July fireworks, which typically send Zillah into a panicked frenzy, my sister Heidi and I donned our backpacks and headed to the mountains for a few days. Our destination this year was Tubal Cain Mine and Tull Canyon, located in the Northeast corner of the Olympics.

When hiking, my daypack typically weighs about 13 pounds. Knowing that I have been struggling with this weight on the steeper trails, I was very nervous about my 25# pack. I kept looking over my gear, trying to pare that number back as far as I could, envisioning myself straining under a monstrous pack, legs comically quivering with each laborious step. The lack of a hyperactive imagination has never been my problem. The morning of our departure finally dawned and the three of us loaded our packs (Zillah carries her own food, water & bowl) into the car and hit the road.

The Tubal Cain trail is a nicely maintained trail through an understory of wild rhododendrons with a gentle and steady elevation gain. I don't think I have been more thankful for a 'gentle slope' than I was this weekend. I won't say I didn't labor under my pack, but the trail was mild enough that I didn't struggle. My legs didn't quiver comically, I didn't fall over backwards like a turtle on its back, nor did my pack overpower me. For my first pack trip in a decade, with a new pack and new boots, the choice of trail was perfect. Roughly four miles later, we arrived at our campsite on Copper Creek, in the shadow of Iron and Buckhorn Mountains. We pitched our tents, filtered water for evening, ate dinner and hung our bear bag, then called it a night.

Day Two
There is something about sleeping outdoors in the woods that I love. My hips always hurt in the morning due to the way I'm built, but falling asleep to the sounds of the forest, with nearby Copper Creek singing its lullaby, just can't be beat. Morning dawned bright and beautiful and I enjoyed laying in my tent listening to the forest awaken. Varied Thrush whistled greetings, a hummingbird hummed past - the forest came alive with twitterings and buzzings. The peace and tranquility surrounded me like a cocoon and I felt the stresses of my everyday life waning with each breath. Eventually we crawled out of our tents, had breakfast and planned our day. We opted to leave our packs behind and just carry some water with us (and cameras of course).

The trail was a bit more aggressive, but neither of us was carrying a load, so we had little difficulty climbing to the top. Our first destination of the day was Tubal Cain mine, a copper & manganese mine that was built at the turn of the century and abandoned in 1920. We found the secondary entrance to the mine, but the main entrance eluded us. What we happened upon, instead, was the site of a WWII B-17 that crashed during a blizzard in 1952. We had planned on visiting the wreckage this trip, but later in the day. I hadn't counted on the wreckage affecting me the way it did - as soon as I touched the twisted metal, I was overcome with sorrow and started weeping uncontrollably. I respectfully asked permission to climb aboard, then sat in what remained of the fuselage, sobbing. This was sacred ground and due far more respect than most visitors bestow it. As my tears began to subside, I used my buff to dry my eyes as I headed back across the meadow to rejoin Heidi.



Tull Canyon as seen through the B-17 wreckage

Sitting in the secondary entrance to the mine



From the crash site, we continued up the trail, deep into Tull Canyon. Iron Mountain stood guard over us, squaring off against an unnamed ridge on the other side, creating an isolated piece of heaven few hikers bother to explore - most turn around at the crash site. As we hiked further into the canyon, our eyes were ever scanning the mountain wall in search of another mine entrance, but none was found. Nevertheless, we were so very glad we decided to wander out to the trail's end. The meadows were splashed in color like a painter's canvas from all the wildflowers. Butterflies fluttered by. The quiet broken only by the chirp of an occasional bird, the clicking flight of grasshoppers and the disruptive sound of a jet passing over us. We had the trail entirely to ourselves, and we appreciated the solitude.



Back at camp we enjoyed a late lunch in the shade of the forest. The creek was so inviting that we took off our boots to soak our feet in the icy waters. Any weariness was washed (numbed) away in a few seconds. The setting there reminded me of the fairy tales of my youth; I could picture fairies and wee forest folk dancing about; unicorns and other mythical beings sitting down to a feast of berries and pine nuts. Yep. Imagination intact.


We relaxed and napped in our tents for a bit, then returned to the trail in hopes of finding the main entrance to the mine. We learned after the trip that we were, in fact, camping in the area of the original mining camp. Anyhow, off we went, traipsing through woods that could be best described as "Hansel and Gretel" woods (Heidi informed me she was feeding me to the witch if we found a house made of candy!). We wandered uphill, zigged this way, back-tracked, zagged that way, crossed a stream and up a rockslide that ended up being the tailings of the mine. There at the top of that mound of loose gravel, in the middle of a solid face of mountain, was the main entrance of the mine. The mine has been experiencing collapse and cave-ins since the 20's, so is unsafe to enter and explore, but I was able to stand just inside the entrance and shine my flashlight as far as the light would penetrate into the darkness. About a foot of water flows freely from deep within the mine, and the floor was littered with mining debris (pipe, ore car rail, etc). The curious, adventuresome side of me wanted to explore more, but the self-preservation side won out in the end.

 

 

It was then back to camp for dinner and playtime with Zillah before turning in.

 

DAY THREE

I lounged in my tent as long as I could Sunday morning, knowing that once I got up it would signal the beginning of the end of my weekend. I wasn't ready to head back to the chaos that is my daily life. Heidi and Zillah were up and about long before I decided to face the inevitable. We ate another trail breakfast, filtered our water for the trip out, and started packing up our camp. I rearranged the weight in my pack in the hopes of making it easier to carry, which worked out quite nicely. As I continue backpacking more, gaining more experience and lighter equipment, I will continue to tweak my load until it is as optimal as possible. 

 

Once we had ensured that we left no trace of our visit, including packing up trash left behind by other campers, we struck out for the return trip home. Normally I struggle significantly with the downhill portions of these hikes, but the grade of this trail was so nominal that such was not the case. We stopped only once, and that was so I could zip off the legs of my pants. We rested there longer than we needed to, simply because we could, allowing us more time to soak up the quiet and reminisce on the finer points of our adventure. We reached the car without incident or difficulty, stripped off our packs, grabbed lunch and headed back up the trail about 1/10 of a mile. There is a shelter there, set back off the trail a bit and surrounded by the forest. It was here that we enjoyed a lunch that included some fresh-caught, home-smoked trout supplied by one of my friends. Eventually our desire for hot showers won out over the desire to linger longer, and we again packed up and headed for the car.

    

 

 

What an absolutely divine weekend. I tested out new boots and a new pack, and love both. I put my body under an additional load and it performed better than expected. I spent quality time with my little sister and our shared dog, doing what all three of us love best. As I reflect back on the weekend, I realize how blessed Heidi and I were to have parents who not only loved the outdoors, but instilled that love in their daughters. Our mother was there with every bootstep. She sat alongside us on every "sittin' log". Her toes dangled in the water with mine, and I could see her smile on my sister's face. Every time I squatted to pee in the woods, I thought of my mother - odd time, I know, but you really had to know her to understand. I may struggle on my climb up Mt St Helens, but my mother will be right there with me, spiritually, every step of the way, and that knowledge has re-fueled my belief that I can do this. The best part will be my sister there at my side, where she belongs.  

 

In loving memory of Patricia A. Pfeifer.

 

Mount Townsend

6/14/15

The summit of Mount Townsend stands at 6,260 feet above sea level. It's not an overly lofty or impressive peak from afar - you couldn't readily pick it out looking at a profile view of the Olympics. It doesn't have an imposing, jagged peak to make it stand out from the rest of the range. It has no glaciers blanketing its face, announcing its presence. One shouldn't let any of these facts fool you into thinking any less of it, for what Mount Townsend does offer is three awesome, muscle burning, visually impactive routes to the top. The views get better with every 500ft of elevation you gain, climaxing at the top where you can see from Mt Rainier to Canada, from Port Angeles to Seattle. Standing in one direction you see Hood Canal, Puget Sound and the San Juans. Turn around and you are staring into the interior, the very heart, of the Olympics.

I was joined this day by Holly, Chris M, Mike, Tamey, and Roxy the chocolate lab. The day dawned bright with promises of plenty of sunshine and clear skies. We arrived at the trailhead at 7:30, signed in, and started our trek.

The trail to the summit of Mt. Townsend begins through beautiful forest, as most in the Olympics do. The morning sun filtering through the trees did little, though, to distract us from the fact that this trail very quickly begins climbing at about a 20* angle. Switchback after switchback, we wound our way up the face of the mountain.

The lower portions of the trail gifted us with beautiful pink wild rhododendrons and the sounds of a nearby stream that could occasionally be glimpsed through the trees. Eventually the trees started thinning and the rhodies gave way to meadows and hillsides filled with blooming wildflowers. Eventually even these became more sparse as we climbed into the subalpine region of the mountain. Up and up we went, through each of these transitions until we left the treeline behind and finally reached the summit.

Physically I did okay on the way up. I tired less-easily than I did earlier in the season, but still felt the effects of my lifelong anemia issue; I am easily winded and my muscles scream for oxygen-rich blood, which I just don't have. One step at a time, I plugged along and maintained a fairly steady pace. At the top we took time eat, rest, take photos and revel in the scenic picture that lay before us. It was the trip down that did me in, as usual. I picked my way down the trail, relying heavily on my trekking poles to ease some of the burden being placed on my joints. It was extremely discouraging, this far into my conditioning, to be still experiencing so much difficulty with the descent. Two members of our group broke off and headed down the trail at a faster pace. Hikers that had passed us on their way up, also passed me on the way back down - I was officially being lapped. I try to stay positive in the face of these defeats, but it is becoming increasingly evident that if something doesn't 'click' soon, I will be struggling on Mt. St. Helens again...

"Failure will never overtake me if my determination to succeed is strong enough." ~ Og Mandino

Chris M, Tamey, Me, Roxy, Holly & Mike at the summit

Distance hiked: 8 miles
Elevation gain:3,010 ft

Copper Creek / Lightning Peak

6/6/2015

 

The trail guides don't give much of a description for the Copper Creek trail. Trip reports from previous hikers don't paint a pretty picture, making statements such as "Not worth the effort", "No significant payoff" or "Not enough bang for the buck". My dad taught me long ago that if I listen to the critics, I'll miss out on some great things, be it movies, plays, books, or as in this case, trails. Don't take me wrong - this trail is steep, and not blessed with pastoral lakes or panoramic vistas. You do, however get a few great views along the trail if you just take the time to look. Copper Creek cascades down some pretty severe terrain, so there are waterfalls and rapids, small canyons, tall old-growth trees, and glimpses into the past. You see, portions of this trail were originally built in the early 1900's to access the copper and manganese mines that can be found alongside the trail (and are worth the side trips to investigate). What we found most abundant on this trail was peace and quiet.

Located on the far side of Lake Cushman in the Olympics, the setting is idyllic. The trail guide gave very poor directions to the trailhead, however, so we initially headed out on a trail that took us to the Skokomish River. There are certainly worse places to get lost. We met a very nice local lady who directed us to another trail off the river that intersected the road which, in turn, would take us to where we needed to be. We enjoyed following the river upstream, taking off our boots to ford it in one place, then re-crossing via downed trees in another. Mike and his chocolate lab, Roxy, were my hiking companions on this trip, and Roxy had the time of her life romping and splashing through the river. I love watching the exuberance of a lab at play.

Once we reached our trailhead and signed ourselves in on the register, we tried to match Roxy's enthusiasm as we headed up the trail. It started out fairly benign, but as soon as we crossed the first footbridge, the kid gloves came off and we started up, up, up. I'd like to quickly mention that at the lower portion of the trail, the creekbed is dry. However, further up, Copper Creek is fully flowing. At some point about 1/3 of the way up the trail, the creek hits a fissure and diverts below ground. Cool, right?

It wasn't long before even Roxy lost her enthusiasm. To simply say this trail is steep just isn't giving it credit. It's STEEP. All the way to the top. I'd like to say we powered all the way to the top like locomotives, but I'm really more like the little engine that could. If I don't end up with buns of steel when all this is said and done, I'm going to be really annoyed.

With a great deal of huffing and puffing, we finally made to our destination - the upper ridge of Lightning Peak. It was here we gratefully broke for lunch. The solitude up at the top was almost complete and I could feel absolute serenity wash over me as I dined on my smoked salmon, sharing bits with Roxy.

From inside one of the Brown Mule mines

After a much-needed respite, we again donned our packs and headed back down. If the trip up the trail was tough, the trip down was tougher. In more than one spot we marveled that we had just come up this trail. As usual, I struggled with the down, but not as much as I feared. Every muscle group in my legs, plus a few I didn't know existed, were put to the test on both the ascent and descent. We didn't cut any time off of our climb time on the way down, but picture if you will, going down stairs for 2 solid hours. By the time we got back to Mike's truck, I could no longer feel my knees. I could feel my feet though, and they weren't happy with me - I really need new boots, not that different boots would have helped much on this one. We decided to visit two of the mines on our way down and the coolness of the air within was a refreshing break from the heat of the day, especially since even my sweat was sweating.

This was a good hike and gave me a better picture of where I am physically. I am stiff and sore, but considering the severity of this trail, I expect to be. I am still questioning my ability climb Mt St Helens in September, but my confidence level is being to increase again. I know what trails still lay ahead in our conditioning schedule and I think I'm right on track.

And for the record - I'd hike this one again.

Distance hiked: 5 miles
Elevation gained: 2400 ft

Church Creek

5/30/2015
 
Church Creek trail can pretty much be summed up in one word ... Wow.

Trail descriptions for this trail are few - we had to rely on trip reports from previous hikers and even then they didn't give much of an insight as to what lay ahead of us.

The trail winds its way through some beautiful old growth forest, deep into the Skokomish Recreation Area in the lower Hood Canal district of the Olympics. The serenity was amazing; birds singing in the trees, grouse grump-grumping in seeming cadence with our footsteps, all to the music of running water just out of sight. These were the only sounds that broke the silence. Wow, what a good workout. We were prepared to gain 2330' in 3.2 miles. That elevation-to-distance ratio was in keeping with what we'd been hiking lately, with a slight push on the gain to increase our conditioning. What we weren't exactly expecting was for that gain to come all in the first two miles of the trail, followed by a descent of about 1500' down into the basin where Church Creek originates. We also weren't expecting to navigate the massive trees that had fallen across the trail.

Me, trying to figure out how to get around the massive tree you see behind me.

Oh, but once you make it up and over that ridge into the basin. Wow.

Church Creek originates from a pond, or 'tarn', that was crystal clear and surrounded on all sides by various peaks and ridgelines. It was so clear that you could see the speckled sides of the trout swimming under the surface, and the red bellies of the salamanders that wandered the bottom. We followed the trail around to the far side of the pond where we had lunch and reveled in the beauty and serenity of the basin.

 

After lunch it was back to the trail for our up-and-over return trip. The final descent of the trail made me realize how far I have yet to go on my conditioning. I fell behind Holly and Ken, struggling with the degree of decline. Chris M and Mike hung back with me on the trail. It has shaken my confidence in my ability to handle the descent of Mt St Helens climb, and made me realize that I need to up my game if I'm going to make it.

 

I have added a high-protein powder to my daily fruit smoothies in the hopes of developing some muscle mass in my legs. I am now consuming 60g of protein in the mornings, along with additional amino acids and other muscle building goodies. My weekday workout regime will be adjusted again to concentrate more on building muscle and bumping up my stamina/endurance a bit more.

 

All in all, this was a great conditioning hike with a wonderful payoff at the end of the trail. I plan on doing it again next year, but as an overnight - and I'm bringing a fishing pole.

 

Distance hiked: 6.4 miles
Elevation gain: 2300'

Iron Bear Peak

May 23, 2015

Those who regularly hike with me are beginning to realize what my sister learned long ago - outings with me are always an adventure. I'd like to think it's because of my inane ability to keep life interesting, but it probably has more to do with the events of happenstance that seem more prolific when I'm around. Our hike to Iron Bear Peak was no exception...

I was joined this week by Chris M. and my sweet Rottweiler-Lab Mix, Zillah. The adventure probably began with my choice to drive the Mustang on a road described as "dicey in places". People just don't think of Mustangs as all-terrain vehicles, although I am working on re-defining the term 'sport utility vehicle'. I am thankful for that wide wheelbase which made straddling the large potholes possible.

The Teanaway Ridge trail to Iron Bear Peak is located in Eastern Washington, just north of Cle Elum. The majority of the trails I hike are, for no particular reason, on the west side of the state, so hiking on the 'dry side' offers different terrain, foliage and vistas. Teanaway Ridge offers striking lodgepole pine, a smattering of larch, and serviceberry. We timed our hike just right to be blessed by wildflowers galore; balsamroot, trillium, glacier lilies, paintbrush (yellow & orange varieties), and many more I can't name. We stopped at a clearing and were witness to the spectacle of a butterfly ballet. There is no other way to describe it...

We stopped for lunch about half way in, where the trail comes to a junction and splits off into different directions. While eating lunch we admired the industriousness of the ants who were exploring every allowable inch of our packs in search of a meal. (I'm sure both packs were emptied and well shaken to ensure no stowaways). Soon a large, "exuberant" group of young people came up the trail behind us. As they tried to decide which direction to go, we discussed our own options. Initially we decided we'd go whichever way they didn't go ... but they took off towards the peak with enough youthful gusto that we realized their loud chatter wouldn't disturb the peace of our journey. We finished lunch and headed up the trail behind them. Once we rounded the first bend in the trail, we were so glad we did. The view was gorgeous.

The trail wasn't crazy steep, offering instead a steady climb to our destination - Iron Bear Peak. We met up with a few other hikers, and encountered a few motor bikes, but for the most part it was just the three of us on the trail. Zillah behaved good, as she usually does. The summit was reached with little difficulty and our efforts were rewarded with stunning views of the Cascade range, Stuart range, Wenatchee range, Mount Rainier and Mount Stuart. We were able to watch formations of clouds move in and out, playing with the light.

 

The adventure got interesting as we begun our descent down the trail. Those cool cloud formations began bumping into each other with some force, resulting in what I've always called 'thunder bumpers'. Zillah doesn't do thunder, but quelled her panic, focusing instead on getting to the relative protection of the car a little more quickly. Then the hail begun. You read that correctly hail. It was coming down hard and heavy ... and on a portion of the trail without cover - not that lodgepole pine offers much in the way of cover. Chris and I laughed as we were pelted by small marbles, yipping as one would hit a tender spot, then laughing again at the absurdity of it all. The hailstorm lasted roughly 20 minutes and left us as suddenly as it appeared.

A bit further down the trail, the ground squirrels started tormenting Zillah. She could hear them pip-pip-pipping warnings of our approach, then she'd catch sight of one running for cover under the brush. Normally this wouldn't pose much of a problem - except that Zillah's leash was attached to the waist belt of my pack by a carabiner. Zoom! Down the mountainside she darted ... Kristi in tow. Crash! Into the brush she went ... Kristi in tow. I felt like a rag doll. I wish we had video as it must have been amusing to watch from behind.

The terrain and elevation gain/loss of this trail didn't pose enough of a problem for us to haul out our trekking poles (now referred to as lightning rods). I could again feel the positive effects of my mid-week conditioning, as my downhill speed actually bettered our uphill pace. Of course, part of that could be attributed to being pelted by ice...

I think we can put down the hike to Iron Bear Peak up as an adventure of near epic proportions.

Distance hiked: 6.5 miles
Elevation gained: 1900'
Highest point: 5,489 ft

Mt Pilchuck

May 16, 2015

Depending on which trail guide you read (or which set of lies you choose to believe), the trail to the summit of Mt Pilchuck is either 5, 5.4 or  as much as 6 miles and (again, depending on the source) the elevation gain can be anywhere from 2300 to 2600 ft. It is classified as either Intermediate or Most Difficult. All that really matters is that you start an upward trek as soon as you leave your car and you don't stop until you've scaled the ladder to the restored fire lookout at the top. To put it in perspective for those of you who aren't avid hikers, for each city block you hike, you go up roughly 900 feet. That's a climb of 9 stories per block. Looking at it that way, it's no wonder my legs are stiff today!

The trail itself is well traveled, so in mostly good condition, although so heavily-travelled in places that it is overly worn and difficult to navigate. In these places, hikers have begun to go around, causing damage. At about the mid-point of the trail the terrain shifts from dirt and rocks to ... well, rocks.
Lots of rocks.
Lots of big rocks.

 

 

Hiking over large rocks (aka small boulders) is exactly what we need for our conditioning. Fully 2+ miles of our Mt St Helens journey will be through a boulder field where we will be navigating large boulders. Although much smaller in scale, the rocky terrain of Mt Pilchuck tested every muscle group our legs possess, both on the uphill trek and back down. Holly and I maintained an even pace up the trail, and seemed equally matched in speed and endurance on this one.

 

We hiked the entire day through very low, misty clouds. The mist gave an ethereal, almost eerie feel to the trail that made it seem otherworldly at times. We heard some pretty songbirds nearer the trailhead, but the higher we journeyed, the quieter it became - the air instead being filled by the sounds of our own breathing and our light-hearted conversation.

 

 

To actually reach the summit of Mt Pilchuck, you have to scramble up some large boulders (seen in behind me in the photo below), then climb a ladder the last few yards to the lookout. I had to really take care and take my time due to the fragility of my hands, but knew that this workout, too, was absolutely necessary. I will be taxing my hands a lot on the climb to and from the crater. Learning now how to pull myself up and over the larger boulders on the way up, and support my weight for the traverse down will benefit me greatly in September.

 

Once at the top, we enjoyed lunch in the shelter of the lookout. From there, on a clear day, you can see forever. Our weather wasn't quite so gracious - we were able to see less than 100 feet. It didn't rain on us, so we were happy. The clouds swirled around us, dancing to music only they could hear. While there we met a couple of young men who were conditioning to climb Mt Baker and Mt Rainier, which made us feel even better about our choice of trail. We compared notes on trails, shared stories and talked about our upcoming climbs - theirs far more difficult and technical than ours.

After we were rested and refueled, we started back down the trail.

Mt Pilchuck was hiked in its entirety without knee supports, and my legs held up surprisingly well. I was pretty stiff and sore by the time we returned to the trailhead, but on a physical whole, I felt extremely well. Our downhill pace closely matched that of our uphill trek, and I could further feel the benefits of my off-trail conditioning. My confidence boosted, I am ready to tackle the next hike. After I can move without creaking. ;)

Distance hiked: 5.6 miles
Elevation gain: 2350 ft



Annette Lake

May 2, 2015

Some trails are just worth the effort it takes to hike them. Annette Lake Trail is one of those trails, and I would recommend it to anyone in shape enough to tackle the elevation and distance.

I worked out lightly throughout the week in preparation for the hike to Annette Lake, keeping my sets on the stair machine to 100. I have been paying more attention to diet as well, especially the day prior; plenty of protein and water, less caffeine. Since we planned an earlier start, due to the popularity of the trail, I made sure I was in bed plenty early enough to be fully rested. Although these details seem minute in the grand scheme of things, I felt they made a difference in my body's performance.

The trail starts out fairly benign, with negligible elevation gain tempered by a few switchbacks and littered with rocks. Once we intersected the Iron Horse Trail, however, the going got interesting. The terrain became more uneven, the trail strewn with rocks and small boulders to navigate, and crisscrossed with roots. The elevation gain on this trail, almost all 1700 ft of it, comes within two miles - switchbacks helped, but you still knew you were climbing. Although not as steep as our hike up Kloshe Nanitch, it was enough to give us a good workout, especially with the rocks and roots factored in.

Mother Nature had mercy on us. Not only was the weather spectacular, but interspersed along the route were a couple small waterfalls and views of the ridgeline running parallel to us to reward us for our perseverance. The majority of the trail is under cover of the forest, which kept the temperature cool. Just as I started thinking I should throw a layer on, we'd pop out into the warmth of the sun and I'd be good to go again.

Eventually you make it to the lake, which is situated in a bowl at a confluence of ridges, thus surrounded by steep walls of rock and trees. It is crystal clear, and the most beautiful shade of turquoise. This is a perfect place to stop for lunch ... or to catch it, if you brought a pole. That's right, this lake has trout.

After resting, eating lunch and exploring the shores of the lake, it was time to head back down the trail, with a quick side-trip to the back-country toilet. Those are something one just has to experience firsthand. Although I wouldn't say I struggled on the way down, I most certainly felt the strain in my knees and quads. Even my hips were making themselves known by the time we again reached the Iron Horse Trail, but with the unevenness of the trail, I wasn't surprised. It is conditioning like this that is going to help prepare me for St Helens. One thing I'm noticing is, although I still hurt and ache when I get home, my recovery time is less. By Sunday afternoon I was only feeling the muscle strain in my upper quads and only minimal stiffness when I awoke Monday - little to no joint pain at all.

All in all, this was a great hike.

Distance hiked: 7.5 miles
Elevation gained: 1750 ft