Copper Creek / Lightning Peak

6/6/2015

 

The trail guides don't give much of a description for the Copper Creek trail. Trip reports from previous hikers don't paint a pretty picture, making statements such as "Not worth the effort", "No significant payoff" or "Not enough bang for the buck". My dad taught me long ago that if I listen to the critics, I'll miss out on some great things, be it movies, plays, books, or as in this case, trails. Don't take me wrong - this trail is steep, and not blessed with pastoral lakes or panoramic vistas. You do, however get a few great views along the trail if you just take the time to look. Copper Creek cascades down some pretty severe terrain, so there are waterfalls and rapids, small canyons, tall old-growth trees, and glimpses into the past. You see, portions of this trail were originally built in the early 1900's to access the copper and manganese mines that can be found alongside the trail (and are worth the side trips to investigate). What we found most abundant on this trail was peace and quiet.

Located on the far side of Lake Cushman in the Olympics, the setting is idyllic. The trail guide gave very poor directions to the trailhead, however, so we initially headed out on a trail that took us to the Skokomish River. There are certainly worse places to get lost. We met a very nice local lady who directed us to another trail off the river that intersected the road which, in turn, would take us to where we needed to be. We enjoyed following the river upstream, taking off our boots to ford it in one place, then re-crossing via downed trees in another. Mike and his chocolate lab, Roxy, were my hiking companions on this trip, and Roxy had the time of her life romping and splashing through the river. I love watching the exuberance of a lab at play.

Once we reached our trailhead and signed ourselves in on the register, we tried to match Roxy's enthusiasm as we headed up the trail. It started out fairly benign, but as soon as we crossed the first footbridge, the kid gloves came off and we started up, up, up. I'd like to quickly mention that at the lower portion of the trail, the creekbed is dry. However, further up, Copper Creek is fully flowing. At some point about 1/3 of the way up the trail, the creek hits a fissure and diverts below ground. Cool, right?

It wasn't long before even Roxy lost her enthusiasm. To simply say this trail is steep just isn't giving it credit. It's STEEP. All the way to the top. I'd like to say we powered all the way to the top like locomotives, but I'm really more like the little engine that could. If I don't end up with buns of steel when all this is said and done, I'm going to be really annoyed.

With a great deal of huffing and puffing, we finally made to our destination - the upper ridge of Lightning Peak. It was here we gratefully broke for lunch. The solitude up at the top was almost complete and I could feel absolute serenity wash over me as I dined on my smoked salmon, sharing bits with Roxy.

From inside one of the Brown Mule mines

After a much-needed respite, we again donned our packs and headed back down. If the trip up the trail was tough, the trip down was tougher. In more than one spot we marveled that we had just come up this trail. As usual, I struggled with the down, but not as much as I feared. Every muscle group in my legs, plus a few I didn't know existed, were put to the test on both the ascent and descent. We didn't cut any time off of our climb time on the way down, but picture if you will, going down stairs for 2 solid hours. By the time we got back to Mike's truck, I could no longer feel my knees. I could feel my feet though, and they weren't happy with me - I really need new boots, not that different boots would have helped much on this one. We decided to visit two of the mines on our way down and the coolness of the air within was a refreshing break from the heat of the day, especially since even my sweat was sweating.

This was a good hike and gave me a better picture of where I am physically. I am stiff and sore, but considering the severity of this trail, I expect to be. I am still questioning my ability climb Mt St Helens in September, but my confidence level is being to increase again. I know what trails still lay ahead in our conditioning schedule and I think I'm right on track.

And for the record - I'd hike this one again.

Distance hiked: 5 miles
Elevation gained: 2400 ft

Church Creek

5/30/2015
 
Church Creek trail can pretty much be summed up in one word ... Wow.

Trail descriptions for this trail are few - we had to rely on trip reports from previous hikers and even then they didn't give much of an insight as to what lay ahead of us.

The trail winds its way through some beautiful old growth forest, deep into the Skokomish Recreation Area in the lower Hood Canal district of the Olympics. The serenity was amazing; birds singing in the trees, grouse grump-grumping in seeming cadence with our footsteps, all to the music of running water just out of sight. These were the only sounds that broke the silence. Wow, what a good workout. We were prepared to gain 2330' in 3.2 miles. That elevation-to-distance ratio was in keeping with what we'd been hiking lately, with a slight push on the gain to increase our conditioning. What we weren't exactly expecting was for that gain to come all in the first two miles of the trail, followed by a descent of about 1500' down into the basin where Church Creek originates. We also weren't expecting to navigate the massive trees that had fallen across the trail.

Me, trying to figure out how to get around the massive tree you see behind me.

Oh, but once you make it up and over that ridge into the basin. Wow.

Church Creek originates from a pond, or 'tarn', that was crystal clear and surrounded on all sides by various peaks and ridgelines. It was so clear that you could see the speckled sides of the trout swimming under the surface, and the red bellies of the salamanders that wandered the bottom. We followed the trail around to the far side of the pond where we had lunch and reveled in the beauty and serenity of the basin.

 

After lunch it was back to the trail for our up-and-over return trip. The final descent of the trail made me realize how far I have yet to go on my conditioning. I fell behind Holly and Ken, struggling with the degree of decline. Chris M and Mike hung back with me on the trail. It has shaken my confidence in my ability to handle the descent of Mt St Helens climb, and made me realize that I need to up my game if I'm going to make it.

 

I have added a high-protein powder to my daily fruit smoothies in the hopes of developing some muscle mass in my legs. I am now consuming 60g of protein in the mornings, along with additional amino acids and other muscle building goodies. My weekday workout regime will be adjusted again to concentrate more on building muscle and bumping up my stamina/endurance a bit more.

 

All in all, this was a great conditioning hike with a wonderful payoff at the end of the trail. I plan on doing it again next year, but as an overnight - and I'm bringing a fishing pole.

 

Distance hiked: 6.4 miles
Elevation gain: 2300'

Iron Bear Peak

May 23, 2015

Those who regularly hike with me are beginning to realize what my sister learned long ago - outings with me are always an adventure. I'd like to think it's because of my inane ability to keep life interesting, but it probably has more to do with the events of happenstance that seem more prolific when I'm around. Our hike to Iron Bear Peak was no exception...

I was joined this week by Chris M. and my sweet Rottweiler-Lab Mix, Zillah. The adventure probably began with my choice to drive the Mustang on a road described as "dicey in places". People just don't think of Mustangs as all-terrain vehicles, although I am working on re-defining the term 'sport utility vehicle'. I am thankful for that wide wheelbase which made straddling the large potholes possible.

The Teanaway Ridge trail to Iron Bear Peak is located in Eastern Washington, just north of Cle Elum. The majority of the trails I hike are, for no particular reason, on the west side of the state, so hiking on the 'dry side' offers different terrain, foliage and vistas. Teanaway Ridge offers striking lodgepole pine, a smattering of larch, and serviceberry. We timed our hike just right to be blessed by wildflowers galore; balsamroot, trillium, glacier lilies, paintbrush (yellow & orange varieties), and many more I can't name. We stopped at a clearing and were witness to the spectacle of a butterfly ballet. There is no other way to describe it...

We stopped for lunch about half way in, where the trail comes to a junction and splits off into different directions. While eating lunch we admired the industriousness of the ants who were exploring every allowable inch of our packs in search of a meal. (I'm sure both packs were emptied and well shaken to ensure no stowaways). Soon a large, "exuberant" group of young people came up the trail behind us. As they tried to decide which direction to go, we discussed our own options. Initially we decided we'd go whichever way they didn't go ... but they took off towards the peak with enough youthful gusto that we realized their loud chatter wouldn't disturb the peace of our journey. We finished lunch and headed up the trail behind them. Once we rounded the first bend in the trail, we were so glad we did. The view was gorgeous.

The trail wasn't crazy steep, offering instead a steady climb to our destination - Iron Bear Peak. We met up with a few other hikers, and encountered a few motor bikes, but for the most part it was just the three of us on the trail. Zillah behaved good, as she usually does. The summit was reached with little difficulty and our efforts were rewarded with stunning views of the Cascade range, Stuart range, Wenatchee range, Mount Rainier and Mount Stuart. We were able to watch formations of clouds move in and out, playing with the light.

 

The adventure got interesting as we begun our descent down the trail. Those cool cloud formations began bumping into each other with some force, resulting in what I've always called 'thunder bumpers'. Zillah doesn't do thunder, but quelled her panic, focusing instead on getting to the relative protection of the car a little more quickly. Then the hail begun. You read that correctly hail. It was coming down hard and heavy ... and on a portion of the trail without cover - not that lodgepole pine offers much in the way of cover. Chris and I laughed as we were pelted by small marbles, yipping as one would hit a tender spot, then laughing again at the absurdity of it all. The hailstorm lasted roughly 20 minutes and left us as suddenly as it appeared.

A bit further down the trail, the ground squirrels started tormenting Zillah. She could hear them pip-pip-pipping warnings of our approach, then she'd catch sight of one running for cover under the brush. Normally this wouldn't pose much of a problem - except that Zillah's leash was attached to the waist belt of my pack by a carabiner. Zoom! Down the mountainside she darted ... Kristi in tow. Crash! Into the brush she went ... Kristi in tow. I felt like a rag doll. I wish we had video as it must have been amusing to watch from behind.

The terrain and elevation gain/loss of this trail didn't pose enough of a problem for us to haul out our trekking poles (now referred to as lightning rods). I could again feel the positive effects of my mid-week conditioning, as my downhill speed actually bettered our uphill pace. Of course, part of that could be attributed to being pelted by ice...

I think we can put down the hike to Iron Bear Peak up as an adventure of near epic proportions.

Distance hiked: 6.5 miles
Elevation gained: 1900'
Highest point: 5,489 ft

Mt Pilchuck

May 16, 2015

Depending on which trail guide you read (or which set of lies you choose to believe), the trail to the summit of Mt Pilchuck is either 5, 5.4 or  as much as 6 miles and (again, depending on the source) the elevation gain can be anywhere from 2300 to 2600 ft. It is classified as either Intermediate or Most Difficult. All that really matters is that you start an upward trek as soon as you leave your car and you don't stop until you've scaled the ladder to the restored fire lookout at the top. To put it in perspective for those of you who aren't avid hikers, for each city block you hike, you go up roughly 900 feet. That's a climb of 9 stories per block. Looking at it that way, it's no wonder my legs are stiff today!

The trail itself is well traveled, so in mostly good condition, although so heavily-travelled in places that it is overly worn and difficult to navigate. In these places, hikers have begun to go around, causing damage. At about the mid-point of the trail the terrain shifts from dirt and rocks to ... well, rocks.
Lots of rocks.
Lots of big rocks.

 

 

Hiking over large rocks (aka small boulders) is exactly what we need for our conditioning. Fully 2+ miles of our Mt St Helens journey will be through a boulder field where we will be navigating large boulders. Although much smaller in scale, the rocky terrain of Mt Pilchuck tested every muscle group our legs possess, both on the uphill trek and back down. Holly and I maintained an even pace up the trail, and seemed equally matched in speed and endurance on this one.

 

We hiked the entire day through very low, misty clouds. The mist gave an ethereal, almost eerie feel to the trail that made it seem otherworldly at times. We heard some pretty songbirds nearer the trailhead, but the higher we journeyed, the quieter it became - the air instead being filled by the sounds of our own breathing and our light-hearted conversation.

 

 

To actually reach the summit of Mt Pilchuck, you have to scramble up some large boulders (seen in behind me in the photo below), then climb a ladder the last few yards to the lookout. I had to really take care and take my time due to the fragility of my hands, but knew that this workout, too, was absolutely necessary. I will be taxing my hands a lot on the climb to and from the crater. Learning now how to pull myself up and over the larger boulders on the way up, and support my weight for the traverse down will benefit me greatly in September.

 

Once at the top, we enjoyed lunch in the shelter of the lookout. From there, on a clear day, you can see forever. Our weather wasn't quite so gracious - we were able to see less than 100 feet. It didn't rain on us, so we were happy. The clouds swirled around us, dancing to music only they could hear. While there we met a couple of young men who were conditioning to climb Mt Baker and Mt Rainier, which made us feel even better about our choice of trail. We compared notes on trails, shared stories and talked about our upcoming climbs - theirs far more difficult and technical than ours.

After we were rested and refueled, we started back down the trail.

Mt Pilchuck was hiked in its entirety without knee supports, and my legs held up surprisingly well. I was pretty stiff and sore by the time we returned to the trailhead, but on a physical whole, I felt extremely well. Our downhill pace closely matched that of our uphill trek, and I could further feel the benefits of my off-trail conditioning. My confidence boosted, I am ready to tackle the next hike. After I can move without creaking. ;)

Distance hiked: 5.6 miles
Elevation gain: 2350 ft



Annette Lake

May 2, 2015

Some trails are just worth the effort it takes to hike them. Annette Lake Trail is one of those trails, and I would recommend it to anyone in shape enough to tackle the elevation and distance.

I worked out lightly throughout the week in preparation for the hike to Annette Lake, keeping my sets on the stair machine to 100. I have been paying more attention to diet as well, especially the day prior; plenty of protein and water, less caffeine. Since we planned an earlier start, due to the popularity of the trail, I made sure I was in bed plenty early enough to be fully rested. Although these details seem minute in the grand scheme of things, I felt they made a difference in my body's performance.

The trail starts out fairly benign, with negligible elevation gain tempered by a few switchbacks and littered with rocks. Once we intersected the Iron Horse Trail, however, the going got interesting. The terrain became more uneven, the trail strewn with rocks and small boulders to navigate, and crisscrossed with roots. The elevation gain on this trail, almost all 1700 ft of it, comes within two miles - switchbacks helped, but you still knew you were climbing. Although not as steep as our hike up Kloshe Nanitch, it was enough to give us a good workout, especially with the rocks and roots factored in.

Mother Nature had mercy on us. Not only was the weather spectacular, but interspersed along the route were a couple small waterfalls and views of the ridgeline running parallel to us to reward us for our perseverance. The majority of the trail is under cover of the forest, which kept the temperature cool. Just as I started thinking I should throw a layer on, we'd pop out into the warmth of the sun and I'd be good to go again.

Eventually you make it to the lake, which is situated in a bowl at a confluence of ridges, thus surrounded by steep walls of rock and trees. It is crystal clear, and the most beautiful shade of turquoise. This is a perfect place to stop for lunch ... or to catch it, if you brought a pole. That's right, this lake has trout.

After resting, eating lunch and exploring the shores of the lake, it was time to head back down the trail, with a quick side-trip to the back-country toilet. Those are something one just has to experience firsthand. Although I wouldn't say I struggled on the way down, I most certainly felt the strain in my knees and quads. Even my hips were making themselves known by the time we again reached the Iron Horse Trail, but with the unevenness of the trail, I wasn't surprised. It is conditioning like this that is going to help prepare me for St Helens. One thing I'm noticing is, although I still hurt and ache when I get home, my recovery time is less. By Sunday afternoon I was only feeling the muscle strain in my upper quads and only minimal stiffness when I awoke Monday - little to no joint pain at all.

All in all, this was a great hike.

Distance hiked: 7.5 miles
Elevation gained: 1750 ft

Kloshe Nanitch Trail

April 18, 2015

This weekend I hiked to the Kloshe Nanitch fire lookout. Kloshe Nanitch is a Chinook phrase which means "stands guard" and the peak is very appropriately named. From the site of the former fire lookout, one could 'stand guard' over the entire range, as you would be able to spot a fire just about anywhere within the range.

 

Cool facts aside, this was the first of our more challenging conditioning hikes. At roughly 3.5 miles in, we had gained 2200 feet in elevation, which is enough to challenge your conditioning. The trail met us with varying degrees of steepness ... from moderate to dig-in-your-toes steep. There was a rustic footbridge over a cascading stream, which had to be, I think, the only level spot on the entire trail! The understory was thick with salal, ferns and small huckleberry bushes just leafing out. The trail switchbacked its way up the peak through thick stands of trees and at times was almost choked from view by the salal. We took time out from our steady climb to marvel at the sights, smells and sounds of the forest, the light as it filtered through the upper canopy, and the explosion of color - every shade of green imaginable was present. Two grouse called to each other, grump-grump-grumping up and down the hillside. Midway was an overlook that teased us with the awe-inspiring view that awaited us at the top.

 

I felt good about my conditioning as we climbed up this trail. There were times I was winded, but for the most part, I could tell my at-home conditioning was helping. This trail didn't offer many breaks from the ascent - even the switchbacks were sometimes steep - but my legs carried me with little difficulty. I could feel the workout in my quads and calves, but not in a bad way.

At the top we took in the sweeping view of the Olympic range. You can see Lake Crescent, the Sol Duc River, and the southwestern facing glaciers of Mt Olympus. It was amazing, to say the least, and I will likely never find the words to properly do the view justice. We ate lunch and rested before heading back down the trail. It was the descent that got me. I did well for about the first mile. From there, I struggled more and more with each step. With Mt St Helens a mere 20 weeks away, I am going to have to add squats to my at-home conditioning and am researching other exercises I can do to help build the muscles I need to ensure an enjoyable mountain experience.  

I would like to mention that, for those not in the condition to hike this trail, there is a road to the lookout, although it doesn't seem to get much traffic.

Distance: 7 miles
Elevation Gain: 2200 ft.

Climbing Mountains, One Step at a Time

April 13, 2015

Weather in the Pacific Northwest is unpredictable at best, and springtime is no exception. After taking two weeks off to take care of things around the house before they got out-of-control, I was anxious to get back out on the trail. Spring usually spurs a desire in me to get outside anyway, probably due in part to a childhood filled with camping, picnics and trips to the great outdoors. This year, knowing I have so far to go to be in condition for St Helens, I am feeling the pull even more.

Conditioning for an endeavor such as reaching the summit of Mt St Helens isn't a major ordeal. You start out small, and gradually increase the distance and steepness of your hikes. Step by step, you will get there. The distance to the summit doesn't concern me - I have proven time and again that I can go all day, walking as much as 25 miles in a day. It's the climb. My memories of the boulder field that I will have to navigate are still vivid in my mind - roughly 3 miles of climbing up, over and around boulders ranging in size from basketballs to VW Beetles.

Therefore, after having to cancel a recent hike due to the forecast of snow and high winds below the elevation we'd be hiking, I felt an increased urgency to get back to my conditioning. It is, however, springtime in the PNW. Nevertheless, our fickle weather need only to be an interference to be circumvented, not a show-stopper. For this reason, I decided to purchase a used Stair Machine for $30. I can now continue my conditioning indoors and climb virtual mountains one stationary step at a time.

I set up my machine in the sitting room, angled towards the television. I set the resistance at 5, mid-way, climbed aboard and climbed 100 stairs (roughly 6 stories) while watching Wall-E. I returned for another 100, then a third set, before retiring for the evening. The following day, I increased the number of steps to 125 and did another 3 sets throughout the day. In this manner I will continue on, training indoors during the week, and outdoors in the woods on weekends as the conditions allow.

Step by step, I will get there.