Mt Pilchuck

May 16, 2015

Depending on which trail guide you read (or which set of lies you choose to believe), the trail to the summit of Mt Pilchuck is either 5, 5.4 or  as much as 6 miles and (again, depending on the source) the elevation gain can be anywhere from 2300 to 2600 ft. It is classified as either Intermediate or Most Difficult. All that really matters is that you start an upward trek as soon as you leave your car and you don't stop until you've scaled the ladder to the restored fire lookout at the top. To put it in perspective for those of you who aren't avid hikers, for each city block you hike, you go up roughly 900 feet. That's a climb of 9 stories per block. Looking at it that way, it's no wonder my legs are stiff today!

The trail itself is well traveled, so in mostly good condition, although so heavily-travelled in places that it is overly worn and difficult to navigate. In these places, hikers have begun to go around, causing damage. At about the mid-point of the trail the terrain shifts from dirt and rocks to ... well, rocks.
Lots of rocks.
Lots of big rocks.

 

 

Hiking over large rocks (aka small boulders) is exactly what we need for our conditioning. Fully 2+ miles of our Mt St Helens journey will be through a boulder field where we will be navigating large boulders. Although much smaller in scale, the rocky terrain of Mt Pilchuck tested every muscle group our legs possess, both on the uphill trek and back down. Holly and I maintained an even pace up the trail, and seemed equally matched in speed and endurance on this one.

 

We hiked the entire day through very low, misty clouds. The mist gave an ethereal, almost eerie feel to the trail that made it seem otherworldly at times. We heard some pretty songbirds nearer the trailhead, but the higher we journeyed, the quieter it became - the air instead being filled by the sounds of our own breathing and our light-hearted conversation.

 

 

To actually reach the summit of Mt Pilchuck, you have to scramble up some large boulders (seen in behind me in the photo below), then climb a ladder the last few yards to the lookout. I had to really take care and take my time due to the fragility of my hands, but knew that this workout, too, was absolutely necessary. I will be taxing my hands a lot on the climb to and from the crater. Learning now how to pull myself up and over the larger boulders on the way up, and support my weight for the traverse down will benefit me greatly in September.

 

Once at the top, we enjoyed lunch in the shelter of the lookout. From there, on a clear day, you can see forever. Our weather wasn't quite so gracious - we were able to see less than 100 feet. It didn't rain on us, so we were happy. The clouds swirled around us, dancing to music only they could hear. While there we met a couple of young men who were conditioning to climb Mt Baker and Mt Rainier, which made us feel even better about our choice of trail. We compared notes on trails, shared stories and talked about our upcoming climbs - theirs far more difficult and technical than ours.

After we were rested and refueled, we started back down the trail.

Mt Pilchuck was hiked in its entirety without knee supports, and my legs held up surprisingly well. I was pretty stiff and sore by the time we returned to the trailhead, but on a physical whole, I felt extremely well. Our downhill pace closely matched that of our uphill trek, and I could further feel the benefits of my off-trail conditioning. My confidence boosted, I am ready to tackle the next hike. After I can move without creaking. ;)

Distance hiked: 5.6 miles
Elevation gain: 2350 ft



Annette Lake

May 2, 2015

Some trails are just worth the effort it takes to hike them. Annette Lake Trail is one of those trails, and I would recommend it to anyone in shape enough to tackle the elevation and distance.

I worked out lightly throughout the week in preparation for the hike to Annette Lake, keeping my sets on the stair machine to 100. I have been paying more attention to diet as well, especially the day prior; plenty of protein and water, less caffeine. Since we planned an earlier start, due to the popularity of the trail, I made sure I was in bed plenty early enough to be fully rested. Although these details seem minute in the grand scheme of things, I felt they made a difference in my body's performance.

The trail starts out fairly benign, with negligible elevation gain tempered by a few switchbacks and littered with rocks. Once we intersected the Iron Horse Trail, however, the going got interesting. The terrain became more uneven, the trail strewn with rocks and small boulders to navigate, and crisscrossed with roots. The elevation gain on this trail, almost all 1700 ft of it, comes within two miles - switchbacks helped, but you still knew you were climbing. Although not as steep as our hike up Kloshe Nanitch, it was enough to give us a good workout, especially with the rocks and roots factored in.

Mother Nature had mercy on us. Not only was the weather spectacular, but interspersed along the route were a couple small waterfalls and views of the ridgeline running parallel to us to reward us for our perseverance. The majority of the trail is under cover of the forest, which kept the temperature cool. Just as I started thinking I should throw a layer on, we'd pop out into the warmth of the sun and I'd be good to go again.

Eventually you make it to the lake, which is situated in a bowl at a confluence of ridges, thus surrounded by steep walls of rock and trees. It is crystal clear, and the most beautiful shade of turquoise. This is a perfect place to stop for lunch ... or to catch it, if you brought a pole. That's right, this lake has trout.

After resting, eating lunch and exploring the shores of the lake, it was time to head back down the trail, with a quick side-trip to the back-country toilet. Those are something one just has to experience firsthand. Although I wouldn't say I struggled on the way down, I most certainly felt the strain in my knees and quads. Even my hips were making themselves known by the time we again reached the Iron Horse Trail, but with the unevenness of the trail, I wasn't surprised. It is conditioning like this that is going to help prepare me for St Helens. One thing I'm noticing is, although I still hurt and ache when I get home, my recovery time is less. By Sunday afternoon I was only feeling the muscle strain in my upper quads and only minimal stiffness when I awoke Monday - little to no joint pain at all.

All in all, this was a great hike.

Distance hiked: 7.5 miles
Elevation gained: 1750 ft

Kloshe Nanitch Trail

April 18, 2015

This weekend I hiked to the Kloshe Nanitch fire lookout. Kloshe Nanitch is a Chinook phrase which means "stands guard" and the peak is very appropriately named. From the site of the former fire lookout, one could 'stand guard' over the entire range, as you would be able to spot a fire just about anywhere within the range.

 

Cool facts aside, this was the first of our more challenging conditioning hikes. At roughly 3.5 miles in, we had gained 2200 feet in elevation, which is enough to challenge your conditioning. The trail met us with varying degrees of steepness ... from moderate to dig-in-your-toes steep. There was a rustic footbridge over a cascading stream, which had to be, I think, the only level spot on the entire trail! The understory was thick with salal, ferns and small huckleberry bushes just leafing out. The trail switchbacked its way up the peak through thick stands of trees and at times was almost choked from view by the salal. We took time out from our steady climb to marvel at the sights, smells and sounds of the forest, the light as it filtered through the upper canopy, and the explosion of color - every shade of green imaginable was present. Two grouse called to each other, grump-grump-grumping up and down the hillside. Midway was an overlook that teased us with the awe-inspiring view that awaited us at the top.

 

I felt good about my conditioning as we climbed up this trail. There were times I was winded, but for the most part, I could tell my at-home conditioning was helping. This trail didn't offer many breaks from the ascent - even the switchbacks were sometimes steep - but my legs carried me with little difficulty. I could feel the workout in my quads and calves, but not in a bad way.

At the top we took in the sweeping view of the Olympic range. You can see Lake Crescent, the Sol Duc River, and the southwestern facing glaciers of Mt Olympus. It was amazing, to say the least, and I will likely never find the words to properly do the view justice. We ate lunch and rested before heading back down the trail. It was the descent that got me. I did well for about the first mile. From there, I struggled more and more with each step. With Mt St Helens a mere 20 weeks away, I am going to have to add squats to my at-home conditioning and am researching other exercises I can do to help build the muscles I need to ensure an enjoyable mountain experience.  

I would like to mention that, for those not in the condition to hike this trail, there is a road to the lookout, although it doesn't seem to get much traffic.

Distance: 7 miles
Elevation Gain: 2200 ft.

Climbing Mountains, One Step at a Time

April 13, 2015

Weather in the Pacific Northwest is unpredictable at best, and springtime is no exception. After taking two weeks off to take care of things around the house before they got out-of-control, I was anxious to get back out on the trail. Spring usually spurs a desire in me to get outside anyway, probably due in part to a childhood filled with camping, picnics and trips to the great outdoors. This year, knowing I have so far to go to be in condition for St Helens, I am feeling the pull even more.

Conditioning for an endeavor such as reaching the summit of Mt St Helens isn't a major ordeal. You start out small, and gradually increase the distance and steepness of your hikes. Step by step, you will get there. The distance to the summit doesn't concern me - I have proven time and again that I can go all day, walking as much as 25 miles in a day. It's the climb. My memories of the boulder field that I will have to navigate are still vivid in my mind - roughly 3 miles of climbing up, over and around boulders ranging in size from basketballs to VW Beetles.

Therefore, after having to cancel a recent hike due to the forecast of snow and high winds below the elevation we'd be hiking, I felt an increased urgency to get back to my conditioning. It is, however, springtime in the PNW. Nevertheless, our fickle weather need only to be an interference to be circumvented, not a show-stopper. For this reason, I decided to purchase a used Stair Machine for $30. I can now continue my conditioning indoors and climb virtual mountains one stationary step at a time.

I set up my machine in the sitting room, angled towards the television. I set the resistance at 5, mid-way, climbed aboard and climbed 100 stairs (roughly 6 stories) while watching Wall-E. I returned for another 100, then a third set, before retiring for the evening. The following day, I increased the number of steps to 125 and did another 3 sets throughout the day. In this manner I will continue on, training indoors during the week, and outdoors in the woods on weekends as the conditions allow.

Step by step, I will get there.

Coyote Wall

3/21/2105
We here in the Pacific Northwest are spoiled. Where else on earth will you encounter such a variety of scenery? We have lush evergreen forests full of cedar, fir, pine, spruce and hemlock. We have rivers and streams lined with maple, alder and poplar. We have mountains that give us their own versions of the above varieties; tempered to the altitude and harsher conditions. We have ocean shorelines of sandy beaches, rocky beaches with tide pools, and sheer cliffs. We have rain forests. We have desert. Then we have the Columbia gorge. Shaped by ancient glaciers as they flowed towards, then retreated from, our coastline. Cut by the once mighty Columbia River, now controlled to a docile nature by a series of hydro-electric dams.

Hiking in the gorge is a unique treat, and Coyote Wall trail didn't disappoint. Around every bend of the trail something new awaited me. From the imposing 300 ft tall wall itself to meadows of wildflowers, groves of mature oak trees to a cave tucked into a wall, the serenading song of a stream to the beauty of a waterfall. We played peek-a-boo with Mt. Hood, who would pop out from behind cloud cover, only to hide again, deep in a game of tag with the sun. We had rock formations of talus and basalt. And last, but certainly not least, there was the Columbia River, ever resplendent in her beauty. Each knoll and hill crest brought a new and more spectacular, awe-inspiring view of her.

 

There isn't a lot of elevation gain to be had on trails in the gorge, but there doesn't need to be. What there is, often comes all at once. The steepest portion of this particular trail leads you to the top of Coyote Wall, where you can look down over the edge. I'd like to point out that there was a vulture circling, whether on the hunt for small rodents or waiting for a tourist to lean over just a bit too far, I can't say for sure. The angle of that portion of the trail is very close to matching what we will face at the scree field of Mt St Helen ... and it was here that I labored. The muscles of my upper legs screamed for oxygen with each step towards the top. My lungs worked double-time, as did my heart, to provide them oxygen-rich blood, which I just don't have. I had to stop, gasping for breath, a few times, but made it all the way. As is evidenced by this writing, I wasn't carried off by the vulture to a nearby oak grove. Although my gasping for air probably attracted him, the size of my pack apparently deterred him. It's probably a good thing I didn't wave around any of the jerky I had in there.

Through this early season of conditioning I have had more difficulty with going downhill than up. Other than a fun little skid on some loose scree on my descent from atop Coyote Wall, I had no trouble. When Holly hauled my trekking poles out of my pack and handed them to me, I didn't really need them for anything more than keeping me from skidding the rest of the way down on my butt. No, I'm not known for my grace. My knees, hips and quads seemed to be handling the stress and strain better than they would have a month ago and I can feel my strength gradually building.

Two days later my muscles ache a bit, which I totally expect. Back, thighs and knee muscles are feeling the exertion. I left my knee support at home, but did fine without it on this trail, and have no joint pain at all. I still need to work on strengthening my upper legs and hip flexors, but progress is being made. I think, by September, I'll be able to say "I got this."

Distance hiked: 8 miles
Elevation gain: 1200 ft

Lena Lake

March 14, 2015

Let me start off by saying Rangers lie. I've been making that statement for about 20 years now. Long ago my then-8-yr-old son and I attempted a hike to Lake Angeles via the Switchback Trail. The trailhead sign said it was five miles. The ranger we met along the trail assured us we were almost there. After 4 hours of hiking we still weren't there. A trail marker said we had 1.5 miles left to go. We hiked another hour and gave up. It was decided then that rangers lie. The trail markers are all wrong because they're placed by the rangers, who lie. Trail guides - uh huh, written by rangers. Guess who draw the maps? Yep, rangers. To this day, we have never found Lake Angeles and are pretty much convinced it doesn't exist. You've hiked to it you say? We say you hiked to a body of water you thought was Lake Angeles, because Lake Angeles doesn't exist.

All the trail guides say that the trail to Lower Lena Lake is five miles. I've naively believed that distance because the trail guide said so, but when I last hiked to Lena Lake, it felt like so much more. This past weekend my friend Chris M. and his son joined me on a hike to Lena Lake ... and Chris was armed with a GPS trail tracker. His GPS claimed a little over 7 miles. I know I average 2 mph hiking a moderate trail such as the Lena Lake trail, and we hiked 3.5 hours. Even by my less than impressive math skills, 2x3.5=7. (Mrs. Hoag will be impressed) My affirmation that rangers lie stands.

That said, we had a great hike. It rained on us the most the way up the 18 or so switchbacks to the lake, but it was a light rain and we were appropriately layered. This is, after all, the PNW. If you're afraid of hiking in the wet, you're going to spend your life on the couch. I'm not saying there's anything wrong with sitting on the couch - for some it's not an option - I'm just saying it's not the life for me.

This trail never fails to deliver. From picturesque log bridges and a cascading waterfall to awesome granite outcroppings and humongous boulders, not to mention a forest full of trees, there are plenty of opportunities for photos. The trail very consistently climbed 1300 feet from the trailhead to the lake, which was beautiful. She lays tucked into the surrounding peaks and reflects their images back to them like a mirror. Her surface was rippled by a chilly breeze when we were there, setting some logs afloat as though they were ships destined for the opposing shore. The sun peeked its face through the clouds and gave us a preview of our afternoon's weather.

It's a well-worn trail and only rough (rocks & roots) for the bottom 1/4 mile or so, therefore I had no trouble ascending. Up is not usually my problem, although I usually need to stop for a breather from time to time - due to a lifetime issue with chronic anemia, my muscles don't get enough oxygen. Even at that, I didn't feel myself struggling with the ascent. After a lunch break at the lake, we started down and I pulled out my trekking poles, which help take some of the strain off my joints. I also wore an elastic knee support, which helped tremendously. I'm not positive, but I think I maintained our uphill pace on the return. I felt very much accomplished when we reached the trailhead, as my legs and back were doing great.

I had to take some Advil for some after-activity soreness in the knees Saturday evening, and my hips kept me from sleeping soundly Sunday, but otherwise my body hasn't complained. I am so glad that I am taking the time to gradually and consistently condition for our "big" climb. As soon as I have a few extra $$, I will be ordering some copper knee sleeves which will hopefully help even more. I'm scoring this hike a total success!

Dosewallips State Park

February 28, 2015

This weekend's trip wasn't one of distance or elevation gain, but one of overall conditioning with weight. I loaded my pack heavier than usual and hefted it onto my back for a 5-mile trek through the many trails that dissect Dosewallips State Park. I was joined by my wonderful sister, by good friend Lori, and by two of my awesome grandkids - Buster and Cupcake. At eight years old, Buster has already logged a good number of miles hiking with Nana and has one mountain summit under his belt. This was Cupcake's first real hike, and she kept up like a champ. The weather was beautiful, making the hike even more enjoyable.

The Dosewallips trails loop around, intersect each other, and run all through the park. We walked for a short time along the Dosewallips River, then through some beautiful second growth forest. A portion of the time we were on the old railroad grade, and followed the route of the 'steam donkeys' of days gone by. This area was logged back in the early 1900's and small steam locomotives were used to haul the trees down off the hills, thus the term 'steam donkey'. It is richly steeped in history as portions of the trail were trade passages of the local natives that interconnect and cross the Olympics.

After hiking the trails at the state park, we took a side trip down the road to Rocky Brook Falls. We followed the short trail out to the base of the cascading waterfall. The kids enjoyed playing in the pool and climbing on the big rocks. For me it was the chance to stretch my legs without the weight of my pack.

My body seemed to handle the additional weight well, but then I rather expected it would on this trail due to the negligible elevation gain. I was able to maintain a fair pace with little effort. What surprised me was that the kyphosis in my back didn't affect my ability to carry the extra weight, which was a big plus. Portions of the trail had roots and rocks that had to be navigated, so gave my body a workout with twisting and sideways stepping. My hip flexor ached a bit overnight from the exertion, but worked itself out within a few minutes of waking. Two days later, my left knee is bothering me on deep bends and twists, but it's not overly painful. It may be wise to start wearing knee supports to ward off any permanent damage. My body seems to be bouncing back more quickly from our little adventures, which is encouraging.

Total mileage: 5
Elevation gain: 250' +/-