Thursday, August 27, 2015

Granite Mountain

August 22, 2015

Strolling through the subalpine meadow
 
As the goal of Mt St Helens draws ever nearer, the difficulty of the trails we're hiking continues to increase. The distances are getting longer and our elevation gain is increasing. The obvious payoff is being in condition for our trek to the crater rim. There is also an additional bonus of spectacular views. After a few hours of muscle strain and sweat, you get to gaze out over mountain tops, ridges and valleys those travelling below in cars whiz past, oblivious to what they're missing; sights they likely don't even know exist because you simply can't get there by car. You feel enchanted, empowered, and somewhat humbled by the scenery that lays before you. Granite Mountain offers such a payoff. The view from the fire lookout at the summit is astounding.

We hit the trail at 7am. There were few cars in the parking lot, and the trailhead services two trails, so we knew we wouldn't encounter too many fellow hikers for a while. As with most of our hikes, we started off walking through a beautiful forest and we left the stresses of the world behind. It quickly got down to business and we soon had climbed out of the lush forest and our vertical adventure began. The trail became increasingly steep, with boulders around and over which we had to navigate. Up and up we hiked, our lungs and hearts working to get fuel to our muscles. It felt good to look back on our training and realize how little we were actually struggling, in comparison to where we were just a few weeks ago. We crossed an old avalanche chute and eventually came to a beautiful alpine meadow drenched in autumn colors and dotted with large granite boulders. We stopped here for a few moments to catch our breath and rehydrate. From the meadow we could see the fire lookout at the summit and it seemed close enough to touch. I remember thinking "Ok. All we have to do is push up that steep chunk right there." We were, alas, still an hour away as you have to hike around the summit and come up from the other side.




Feeling ginormous, towering over the subalpine firs!
 
After our quick break we continued up the trail, making our way through a field of rather impressive granite boulders. I looked over to my right and had one of those moments that take your breath away. I had to stop to take in the wondrous sight before me and tears came to my eyes as I thought of my dad. He would have loved that spot, looking over the layered sawtooth ridges ... I don't know if I was overlooking the Stuart or Tatoosh Range, but I felt so close to him right then. Was his spirit hiking with me that day I wonder? I'd like to think he joins me on every hiking adventure and I could picture him alongside me in his red-laced Waffle-Stompers.  


We finally made it around to the back side and made our final push to the summit, arriving at the fire lookout a whopping five hours after leaving the trailhead. We took advantage of the shade under the lookout to eat lunch and recharge. Surprisingly, the sound of vehicles travelling on I-90 below us was still audible although, at this elevation, it was nothing but a distant hum. The smoke from the fires consuming our state was visible in every direction we looked. To dwell on the situation was disheartening so we focused instead on our accomplishment of attaining the summit. We ate, laughed, and rested. Chipmunks scurried all around us, hoping for handouts and entertaining us with their whimsical antics. They scampered and darted all around us, over and under the boulders, and a few of the bolder fellas actually ventured up onto our packs and legs for a moment before zipping off again.

Eventually it came time for us to pack up and head back down. The descent wasn't as difficult as I had expected, and went more quickly than the ascent had. Considering the struggles I've had with the descents all year, this made me happy. Chris, who hasn't hiked with me since late June commented on how much better I was getting with the descent, which pretty much made my day. My quads and hip flexors felt the strain of their labor, but weren't in a condition of over-exertion. Once back at the trailhead I walked around to cool down and stretched out. Nonetheless, everything stiffened up almost immediately upon climbing into the vehicle, so climbing out was almost comical.

I'm feeling much better about my conditioning and preparedness for the upcoming climb up Mt St Helens. I remain skeptical that I will be at the level of conditioning that I need to be, but I'm beginning to think I'll make it.

Standing atop Granite Mountain
Geological Survey Marker at the summit

A typical portion of trail
Distance hiked: 8.6 miles
Elevation gained: 3,800 ft
Elevation at Summit: 5,629 ft

Monday, August 17, 2015

Colonel Bob Peak

August 15, 2015

For me, hiking is about the journey, not necessarily about the destination. I have hiking friends who make it all about the destination, powering up and down trails, stopping for the occasional photo, and proudly crowing their dominance over yet another mountain. That's not me. I am there for the experience of hiking through the woods with a goal of making the lake or summit at the end. My journey up Pete's Creek Trail to Colonel Bob was one of those trips. I didn't make the summit - not because I couldn't, but because my hiking partner couldn't. I wasn't going to push her beyond her limit, nor was I going to leave her behind. I've been the person struggling. I've been the person left behind. There's no feeling worse than being abandoned on the trail. The decision to turn around was a mutual one, and not one I regret one bit.

 
The trail up to Colonel Bob can be divided into four equal parts of about a mile, each section steeper and more difficult than the last. Each section of trail offered up differing terrain; the lower section on nicely maintained loam-style trail, transforming to a steeper trail of rough baseball-sized rock (I call them ankle rollers). The third section was steeper yet, with a surface of gravel and hardpan. It switchbacked through a valley between two ridges, an area through which, many years ago, a fire swept. The trail then carried us up and over one of the ridges and down the other side to a nice creek and back country campsite. Portions of the trail were heavily overgown with ripe huckleberry, thimbleberry and wild blueberry (mountain smorgasbord!), with the added bonus (you know, to keep things interesting) of stinging nettles. The fourth and final section was the last mile up to the summit and is reported to be the steepest and most difficult portion. It was here that we turned around.
 
 
I took a wee tumble on the rocky section of the trail when a stone rolled and tossed me to the ground. I lay there for a moment thinking "Ow. This one is going to leave a mark or two" then got up, brushed myself off, checked my minor injuries (skinned knee & elbow) and headed back up the trail. There was no way I could have avoided or foreseen the incident, it wasn't a matter of not being safe, and Zillah in no way contributed to my going down. It was just my time to hit the ground. I think a rock saw me coming down and reached up with it's pointiest part to help break my fall because I have a tender spot and bit of a bruise starting just below my hip. I enjoyed a good laugh at myself and am still laughing now. I can only imagine how I must have bounced!
 
I love hiking with Zillah. There is just something about venturing with a canine companion that can't be explained. It can be a unique bonding event, if your dog develops good trail manners. I am ever thankful to my sister Heidi who introduced Zillah to hiking and worked with her for the first years of her life. Zillah is an amazing trail dog in her own right - she won't likely ever be featured in any publications for her acts of heroism, but she is top dog in my book. When I fell, she was right there making sure I was okay. When our companion began struggling, we attached Zillah's lead to her pack's waist belt and Zillah gently towed her up the trail, pausing to allow her charge to safely navigate obstacles and ever vigilant in her duties. On the way back down the trail, I rolled her leash up into her pack for everyone's safety. Knowing how I struggle with the descents, she stayed glued to my hip, her head within reach if I needed to be steadied. She's a great dog.
 
The descent was taken at an even slower pace than the ascent, out of consideration for the struggles of my hiking partner. This allowed time to really soak in the environment. It had rained the day before, so the air here was still moist and smelled divine. Every so often I had to stop and just inhale. Zillah had fun pouncing on something that was scurrying around in the underbrush. I enjoyed watching her at play for a few moments before recalling her to my side. We saw tree frogs and gazed in awe at the devastation of a years-old rockslide. We looked for shapes in the moss growing on the trees. We witnessed the severity of our region's drought as evidenced by a bone dry creek bed. Always at the back of my mind was concern for my friend's worsening struggles, but otherwise, the trek down was almost relaxing. 
 
 
 
 
Although I didn't push myself hard on this hike, I feel good about it. I was able to manage the different challenges as they presented themselves. My knees and hip flexors definitely felt the exertion of the downhill descent but, due in part to the much slower pace we adopted, they did fine. I had zero recovery time - by the time I awoke the following morning, my legs were feeling normal and ready to take me wherever I wanted to go. I didn't make the summit this trip, but I very much enjoyed the journey. The summit will still be there waiting for me to return. And return I will. Meanwhile, Mt. St. Helens beckons.
 
 
 
Distance hiked: approx. 6 miles.
Elevation gain: approx. 2300ft
 

Wednesday, August 12, 2015

Mount Rose

August 8, 2015


The trail to the summit of Mount Rose is one I have avoided for a few years, due to reports from hiker friends about how steep it is, and allowing them to convince me it's too tough for me. The trail guides classify this trail as strenuous, challenging, difficult, and expert; the one term they all agree on is 'steep'. I am so glad I put those comments aside and struck out for the top. The view from the summit was well worth the journey to attain it.

Friends Holly, Jeanne and I left the trailhead at 8am - not an overly early hour, but early enough to take in the lingering smell of morning in the forest. Heavenly. They need to bottle that aroma. The trail began innocently enough, allowing us a little time to stretch our legs before the trail started its meandering climb up the mountain.

We hiked uphill, through a forest that has seen two fires in the past 100 years. Survivors with scorched bark, and new growth stood side-by-side with the skeletons of the trees that succumbed to the flames. The silence, near absolute, was only occasionally broken by a lone bird and, for a short time, a nearby stream. It gave plenty of time for personal reflection and quiet conversation amongst ourselves. From time to time our efforts were rewarded with views of Lake Cushman below us, and the neighboring peaks that surrounded us.

Taking a breather
Each section of the trail grew increasingly steeper, carrying us closer to the summit with each step. At one mile we had climbed 1,200 feet and attained 1,990 in elevation. Less than two miles in we hit 3,050; we had one mile left to go, with another 1,300 feet to gain! I huffed and puffed my way up, stopping occasionally to catch my breath. At one point we stopped to watch two squirrels playfully chasing each other all over a small tree. Throughout the entire ascent, my legs didn't protest at all - a sign that at least part of my conditioning these past few months has paid off.

The fireweed was blooming in the areas of burn - such a simple little plant but so very pretty. The bright pink was starkly contrasted by the white, green and black of the trees. It was beautiful to behold.

As we drew nearer the summit, the trees thinned and we got sweeping views of Lake Cushman, Hood Canal, Puget Sound and, in the distance watching over us all, Mount Rainier.


Eventually we made it to the summit where we enjoyed the solitude for a bit before being joined by a few other hikers. This isn't a heavily hiked trail, so there were only a half dozen of us at the top. We ate our lunch, chatted to our fellow hikers, rested and rehydrated before we began the knee-challenging descent.


The last little push to the summit
 
 
I was extremely pleased with my ability to hike this trail. It was steep, and in places challenging, but I feel good about my performance. My legs and lungs are taking the ascents with less difficulty, although I definitely have my pace. As usual, I struggled with the descent, but not as much as I have in the past. A short distance from the trailhead I was having trouble lifting my legs high enough to step over roots so will need to give more attention to further developing those muscles over the next few weeks. I noticed, for the first time, my left knee audibly clicking as I ascended. As we sat eating ice cream after the hike, it had gone numb.
What I have noticed these past few hikes is that my recovery time has dramatically reduced. With this I am extremely pleased!
 
Distance hiked: 6.2 miles
Elevation gained: 3,500 feet
Elevation at summit: 4,301 feet



Monday, August 3, 2015

Mount Ellinor

August 2, 2015


I've hiked to the top of Mount Ellinor before, although, admittedly, it's been a couple years. The trail is frequently hiked and very well maintained. A LOT of work went into the building of this trail, and efforts to maintain it are visible. That doesn't necessarily make it any easier to hike; you are, after all, summiting a mountain, but all that hard work by others is appreciated.

This trail is a perfect conditioning trail; it starts out going up and continues climbing all the way to the summit. I left from the upper trailhead, which cut my distance in half, but also cut out the less aggressive portion of the trail. From the upper trailhead, you are 1.6 miles from the summit and you gain 2,444 ft elevation; a grade that can best be described as 'character building'. Just when you thought you couldn't possibly have much more to go, you encounter another thigh-burning, knee-busting section to climb. Once the majority of the boulders are done, you get to traverse the face of the ridge on a lengthy section of stairs.

 
 
"Are you freaking kidding me????"
 

 

I hiked this trail solo, so took as many breaks as I needed to make my way to the top. The ascent took longer than I had anticipated but my slow and steady pace eventually carried me to the summit. As I got to the traverse section, a marmot watched from his perch in the rocks below me. That is the first marmot I've seen in probably five years; it brought back memories of hiking with my parents and made me smile. Upward I continued, heart and lungs working double time to get oxygen to my straining legs. 

The vistas from this trail are often amazing. On a clear day you can see across Lake Cushman and Hood Canal to Seattle and Mount Rainier. To the north you can usually see Mount Baker and the North Cascades. This day, however, there was too much haze for good photos. Nevertheless, the views were great and I paused a few moments to take in each one.


Eventually I found myself looking across at Mount Washington, Ellinor's immediate neighbor to the north. From here, I knew the summit was just a few minutes away.

Mt Washington, with Hood Canal in background

Onward and upward I continued, refreshed by the knowledge that I was almost there. I rounded a corner and ... came face-to-face with one of Ellinor's resident mountain goats. He was standing on the trail, directly in the path between me and the summit. I stopped dead in my tracks, raised my camera to snap a photo, for which he seemingly posed, then yielded the trail to him. As I backed down the trail, he popped up and over the ridgetop and headed down the mountain. What an incredible moment for me!

I picked out a rock and sat down for a well-deserved lunch break. The sun was at my back and the interior of the Olympics stretched out before me with Mount Olympus illuminated from above, his glaciers the only visible snow in the range. The insects buzzed around but didn't harass me. Two chipmunks scampered around in search for tidbits left behind by other hikers. Otherwise, I was alone there at the top for about 20 minutes which gave plenty of time for reflection. It had taken me over two hours to labor my way up to the summit, but I made it. Alone. I wasn't overly tired, and my legs were doing well. Eventually others joined me. I scrambled the last 7-8 feet to the summit, and had another hiker take a quick snapshot.

 
As I was preparing to leave, a small group of novice hikers made their way to the top. They had run out of water, so I filled one of their bottles from my hydration bladder, then gave them the last of the Nuun (electrolyte replacement) in my bottle. I made myself a fresh bottle, hefted my much-lighter pack on my back and started down. They started down right behind me. At some of the steeper portions, I would make my way down then hand a trekking pole up to the first in line behind me so they could steady themselves coming down, they'd pass it back to the next, and so on. As their muscles screamed, I supplied them with amino acid supplements. We chatted the entire way down about all the things strangers discuss to pass the time. By the time we arrived at the trailhead, they were calling me their 'Trail Angel'. I can live with that.
 
I was very pleased by body's performance on the descent. My legs held up under demands that will be similar to what will be expected of them on Mt. St. Helens. My speed on the return trip was 1-3/4 hours; less than the ascent. I am in love with my boots and wanted to hug the co-worker who bought them for me. They might not be cute, or stylish, or purple, but they performed as well as expected. Although stiff and sore a day later, I've been noticing that my recovery time is less with each hike.
 
Our climb up Mt. St. Helens is a mere six weeks away. I'm nervous and still worry that I will have trouble with the dreaded boulder field, but I think I may just make it.
 
Distance hiked: 3.2 miles
Elevation gained: 2,444 ft
Summit elevation: 5,944 ft